Tuesday

The new cover panel for the head and holding tank area required just a bit of sanding around the edges to clean up where I’d laminated the two plywood panels together.  Afterwards, I installed (temporarily) a handle to help install and remove the panel now and going forward.

Still in the head, I made a template of the panel required to cover the instrument access area in the upper corner, then cut a panel from cherry plywood to fit.  I planned to trim the edges with solid wood and install the panel with removable fasteners for future access needs.

In the galley, I turned my attention to one last dust-making chore:  enlarging the opening to the locker beneath, where the owner planned to store a small high-performance cooler to replace the defunct icebox.  I needed to raise the height of the opening as much as possible, and also cut it down to floor level to allow the cooler to fit.

The drawers and shelf above limited the amount I could enlarge the opening to about an additional 1-1/4″, so I masked around the opening and struck a cutline with a marker.  I also decided to expand the opening to starboard (inboard) by an inch, as well as removing the bit of panel just above the cabin sole.

I made the new cuts with my reviled knock-off vibrating multi-tool, which did the job albeit slowly, but it made a clean cut with minimal disruption.  Now I could measure the new opening so I could build the final cabinet door to match the others I’d recently started.

In the engine room, I measured for and cut a plywood shelf that would support four of the eight batteries required for the new electric motor.  The shelf would span across the forward end of the engine room, and while I wouldn’t actually install the shelf till later (it would limit access to some areas within the space, and there was more work to do first), I wanted to build it and have it ready to go.

I found some molded battery boxes that seemed to fit the chosen batteries well, and planned to use these to house and secure the batteries.  I had one of the boxes on hand as a test, and used it to help dimension and confirm the shelf’s size.  In the final photo, the lid is standing in for the second box that would eventually fit on this shelf; two additional boxes (one per side) would hold the remaining batteries on existing platforms in the engine room.

After test-fitting the piece of plywood, I cut an identical piece of the 12mm material and laminated the two pieces together with epoxy adhesive to make a thicker, stronger piece about 1″ thick.

After final preparations and cleanup, I applied a coat of white primer to the entire head area.  This was a challenging and deceptively large space, with many facets and surfaces, but it was nice to cover up the old surfaces.

While I had the primer out, I primed all sides of the overhead panels and other panels I’d been working on, including the new head panel, the engine room door, and the back panel for the companionway.  Earlier in the day, I’d lightly sanded these panels as needed, mainly at the edges to slightly ease them and remove minor splinters common to this plywood.

In the main cabin, I masked around all the new doorway trim in the bulkhead and applied the first coat of varnish to the new cherry.

Finally, I applied the fourth coat of varnish to the overhead trim pieces, which I’d lightly sanded early in the morning.

Total time billed on this job today:   8.25 hours

0600 Weather observation:  40°, clouds, windy.  Forecast for the day:  Becoming mostly sunny, windy, 52°

Monday

To begin the day, I sanded and varnished (3) the overhead trim pieces.

Some of the last trim needed in the main cabin was at the doorway to the forward cabin, which was still a raw opening, with only the long trim across the bottom in place so far.

After protecting the bulkhead in some key areas with masking tape, I made some basic alignment marks for the top  trim piece, which was also the track to support the sliding doors that would eventually close off the space.  I needed to keep the starboard side of this trim far enough away from the overhead to allow for the overhead and trim, so with some 1″ tape I roughed out the practical clearance required.  With a level, I transferred up the end points of the lower track section, which I used to position the top track properly from side to side, and level.  I secured the track with four screws into the bulkhead.

The upper and lower tracks left space in the door opening on the forward side, so now I cut pieces of cherry to fit and fill in those gaps and bring the edges flush with the forward face of the bulkhead.  I glued the new extensions in place.

Next, I cut and installed cherry trim on the inside of the two vertical sides of the opening, covering the plywood end grains there.  This required about 1-1/4″ width.  I let these narrow trim pieces hang out just barely past the bulkhead paneling on both sides, which would ensure a tight seam there when I installed the face trims on both sides.  I used glue and brads to secure the trim.

With more 1/4″ thick trim, this time 1-1/2″ wide, I trimmed the main cabin side of the opening, bringing the trim flush with the edge of the edge trim and tight against the upper and lower rails.  The thin trim fit within the inside edge of the door tracks, which was required to ensure that the doors themselves would pass by the trim.

Now, on the forward side of the opening, I cut and installed three pieces of the trim to finish off the opening there.

I decided to fill in and make flush the lower edge of the forward door trim between the two trim pieces I’d just installed, so I cut another piece of 1/4″ trim to fit.  I held the bottom edge high enough off the cabin sole substrate to allow the finished sole to slip beneath the new trim during installation.

In the head, I used cardboard to make a template of the panel required over the holding tank space, and cut out a 1/4″ plywood panel to fit.  This required several different minor modifications before it fit appropriately (the panel needed to remain removable for access), since both adjacent bulkheads (original construction) were neither straight nor plumb.

For the final surface, and to increase thickness and stiffness, I cut a piece of the beadboard to fit over the base panel, and glued it in place.

The head overhead was a complicated and small little space, which allowed for light to come in through a small opening port leading to the cockpit, but otherwise served no useful function, since there was no standing headroom anywhere in the head.  There were wide gaps here between the various pieces of the original molded liners and bulkheads, and I chose to use some thin panels to essentially rebuild and cover this angular and tight area and reduce the number of small and fussy trim pieces that would otherwise be required to finish it off.

To begin, I templated a piece for the after, largest side, which was fairly straightforward in nature and, since there was room to slip past the adjacent face, I didn’t have to worry about a perfect fit on the one side.  Once I had the fit where I wanted it, I sanded the new panel smooth and secured it with screws.

Continuing, I made small panels for the remaining two sides of the space (that’s the angled opening around the companionway at the upper corner), and fastened them with glue (to each other) and screws (to the boat), finishing up the area.  These panels would be painted to match the rest of the space, and I’d trim out the other corners and edges as needed with more varnished cherry later.

Total time billed on this job today:   8.25 hours

0600 Weather observation:  42°, rain and showers. Forecast for the day:  Rain, fog, and heavy showers, 61°

Saturday

After a light sanding and cleanup, I applied another coat of varnish to the overhead trim pieces.

There were four cabinet doors required in the cabin:  One for the opening to the chainlocker; one for a small storage cubby a the forward end of the v-berth; one for a storage area beneath the galley sink; and a final one for the lower galley storage area, against the hull (though this opening required modification in order to fit a cooler within, so I left this door for later).

Concentrating for now on the three doors that were ready for attention, I measured the rough openings and figured out the sizes of the doors needed.  These would be simple surface-mount flat-panel doors, built from cherry.

Once I’d determined the overall frame size, I cut the rails and stiles from some 2″ wide stock that I’d earlier ripped for this purpose.

Next, I slotted all the frame pieces to accept the plywood center panels.  I used a slot cutting bit in a router for this job, since the slots in the vertical stiles had to end before the ends of the pieces so the slots wouldn’t show through.   I didn’t have any fancy setups to make these cuts, so with the slot cutter I had I required two passes to make the slot the proper width for the panels, which was OK for a small quantity of doors like this.

To ease the transition between the frame and panel on the visible side of the door, I clamped the frame pieces tightly together temporarily and routed a chamfer on the edge, which I’d later sand clean and smooth before final assembly.  For the moment, I was out of time, so I set the pieces aside for later attention.

Total time billed on this job today:  3.5 hours

0600 Weather observation:  42°, clouds and showers. Forecast for the day:  Showers, fog and mostly cloudy, 66°

Friday

I chose to focus this day on some of the myriad and sundry and indistinct items  on the work list, smaller jobs all required in the long run, but that tended to get swept aside during the push through some of the larger, distinct projects.

In the head, I began by installing the two top cleats to secure the holding tank, and then a pair of vertical cleats just inboard of the tank that would support the cover panel for the space later.

To provide future access for instrumentation in the cockpit, I enlarged the existing openings through the aft bulkhead in the head, in the space I’d left unpaneled for this purpose.  The larger hole would give better access to the actual back side of the cockpit bulkhead for possible instrumentation installations later.  Afterwards, I cut and installed hardwood cleats around the space to support the cover panel that I’d build later.

The heads of the bolts securing the through hull valves were recessed slightly in the hull, and now I mixed up some epoxy fairing compound and filled these holes so I could sand them flush later.

I scribed the new lazarette hatch to the curvature of the aft deck, then shaped the hatch to the lines before sanding the whole thing smooth to get it ready for primer and paint.

Some days before, I’d applied a final coat of fairing compound to portions of the companionway sliding hatch, and now I sanded the filler smooth, and sanded the whole hatch smooth and clean to prepare it for primer and paint.

Sticking with the hatch theme, I uncovered the two cockpit locker hatches, to which I’d long ago applied some fine filler to the minor pinholes and such after high-build primer, and sanded these smooth as needed.

Next, I prepared a piece of trim to cover the ragged, exposed edge of the shelf above the port settee in the main cabin.  I’d decided it would be best to paint this trim, the better to fit in with the painted shelf rather than highlight the trim with varnish, so I was able to use a piece of otherwise-undesirable cherry stock (i.e. the light-colored sapwood from a wider piece) to mill the trim, which I cut to fit using a plywood template I’d made earlier.  After cutting and sanding the trim to fit, I set it aside to await primer and paint.

Earlier in the week, I’d pre-primed the new epoxy securing the cleats around the water tank, so now I could proceed with final preparations and painting inside both settee lockers, port and starboard.

During the remains of the day, I sanded all the new overhead trim pieces as needed, removing layout and tool marks and slightly rounding the exposed edges.  Thus prepared, I applied the first coat of varnish to all sides of all the pieces of trim.

Total time billed on this job today:  8 hours

0600 Weather observation:  31°, mainly clear.  Forecast for the day:  Mostly cloudy, 50°

Thursday

First thing, I installed the holding tank, securing it in place with two of the cleats I’d made and painted earlier.  I didn’t like the cleats I’d prepared as hold-downs for the top edges of the tank–in the final analysis they didn’t really do the job as I’d hoped–so I made some new, larger ones and set them aside to paint before installation.

With my new stack of milled trim lumber at the ready, I got to work on the overhead trim, starting randomly at the port forward side.  These trims would cover the edges of the plywood panels, and also the screws holding the panels in place, and I planned to run them from each side up to the centerline, where I’d install a longitudinal trim strip across the center seams of the panels.    Keeping the transverse trims only half-width made installation more straightforward, since I could run them overlong at the centerline rather than having to cut and fit an exact length to both sides at once.

With a piece of trim cut to generous, rough length, I scribed the angles where it met the cabin trunk (or, more specifically, the trim I’d installed there), and with a satisfactory fit I fastened it in place with bronze trim screws.  I let it overhang the centerline for now.  This piece of trim also required a slight scribe and cut where it met the vertical bulkhead, since the bulkhead had a bit of a burble in it at this top edge.

The way the two pieces of overhead trim came together caused me to rethink my original plan for integrating the existing (but temporarily-removed) vertical bulkhead trim beneath.  I’d first thought I would trim the new trims to fit around the existing piece, but this just didn’t make any sense, so instead I re-cut the top edge of the “old” trim to fit into the new situation above.

Moving aft on the port side, I cut and installed the second and third pieces of transverse trim, each of which required a compound cut on the outboard ends; as before, I let the inboard end run past the centerline for now, awaiting later trimming to length.  Note that any gaps between the new trim and the plywood indicate where the panel screws are located beneath; I purposely avoided over-tightening the screws for the dry fit, but in the final installation, these screws would be flush, and allow the trim to fit tightly along its length in each case.

The next piece of trim coincided with the forward end of the companionway opening, and also signaled a visual transition between the symmetrical forward portion of the overhead and the two distinct sections of the aft portion.   It would also serve as an end point for the longitudinal centerline trim, as the two panels required aft of this point on the port side would actually pass by the centerline before ending at the off-center companionway hatch.  Therefore, I decided to make this a single piece spanning the entire width of the overhead, and incorporating the companionway opening.

Because the forward edge of the opening was not straight nor square to the rest of the trim, I couldn’t let a regular piece of trim just butt against the forward edge; this would have been nice, but instead I had to make a relief cut to allow the trim to fit.  With a specific length required from side-to-side, and compound cuts at both ends, I chose to make a two-piece plywood template of the trim, using pattern plywood cut to 1-1/2″ wide, same as the trim.    This way, with a few reference marks on the overhead, I could more easily determine the end cuts, the cutout around the companionway, and the final length, after which I transferred the shape to a piece of the cherry and cut out the piece accordingly.

Before continuing with the starboard side trim, I used a piece of 2″ wide stock intended for the longitudinal centerline to mark the ends of the three pieces of port trim where I’d need to cut them; then, I removed the port trim so I could repeat the installation steps with the three forward sections of trim on the starboard side, including changing the cut at the top of the bulkhead trim in the corner.  Then, I marked the new pieces of trim at the centerline as well.

The port after section above the galley required three pieces of trim:  two transverse arcs, plus a wider piece at the companionway edge, which I scribed to fit the shape of the space as needed.  The forward of the two transverse trims was straightforward to install, much as the similar sections forward had been, though this one passed by the centerline and would ultimately end with a butt against the companionway trim; I made a reference mark there for later cutting.

The aftermost piece, against the bulkhead, required another plywood template to fit, as it required a relief cut around the molded flat where the large opening port fit, plus the end cuts to fit properly in the defined space.

Finally, I cut and fit two short pieces of trim as needed to complete the small starboard section of overhead, and re-cut the vertical bulkhead trim to fit the new configuration.

At the two forward deadlight openings in the main cabin, I used the fiberglass inner trim rings to mark each of the edge trims for a relief cut that would be required in order to reinstall the trim rings.  Later, after I’d removed all the trim, I made these cuts.

Now, I removed all the trim pieces, and then the overhead panels themselves, setting all aside for final preparations, varnish, and painting.

Total time billed on this job today:   8.25 hours

0600 Weather observation:  20°, clear.   Forecast for the day:  Sunny, 48°

Wednesday

First thing, I finished up the last little piece of the overhead paneling, starting with a rough template made from measurements I’d recorded the day before, and cut from pattern plywood.  With the template temporarily secured with one screw (the deadman didn’t fit in the aft corner), I used straightedges to mark the actual shape of the space on the template, and then transferred this to the final 6mm plywood.

I’d get back to the overhead presently, but for the moment one of the day’s priorities was to complete the preparations in the head and holding tank space, so that I could finish up the holding tank installation later in the week.  I now had the additional plumbing fittings that I needed on hand, so I installed them on the tank while the tank was still loose, which made the job easier.  Space and hose run constraints required the use of elbows for both inlet (aft, or to the right in the photo) and outlet, and these fittings always seem to present installation challenges since they require quite a bit of “spinning space” to thread in.  The discharge side would later be split into two sections:  One leg leading to a deck pumpout fitting; the other leg to the overboard tank pumpout for those times it was legal.  (That bronze fitting near the bottom of the tank is acting as a wedge to hold the tank in place, as the weight of the bronze fittings on the top of the tank made it want to tip out of the space on its own.)

To secure the tank (just temporarily for now), I milled a pair of hardwood cleats and secured them to the bulkheads on either side, basically pinning the tank in place between the cleats and the hull.  I also milled, but did not yet install, additional cleats to secure the top edge of the tank and prevent any up-and-down movement.  With the cleats cut and fit, I could then remove them, and the tank itself, and, after final preparations, painted out the space in and around the tank, the last impediment to final installation.

With that crucial step behind me, I returned to the overhead.  After much thought throughout the panels’ installation, I’d decided to cut and install all the overhead trim now while all the panels were still in place, so that once complete I could remove all the trim and overhead sections for final finishing (varnish on the trim, paint on the panels), and to leave the cabin overhead exposed for upcoming hardware installations later in the project as needed.

I started with some trim at the outboard edges of the overhead, to cover the ends of the panels where they met the cabin trunk and at the same time add a nice bit of wood trim to break up what would, in the final appearance, be a lot of white surface.  I had two pieces of 1-1/4″ trim available for this task, and, after milling an angle on one edge of the trim to match the overhead camber, I cut and fit these pieces in place at the top edge of the cabin trunk, securing them with my bronze trim screws.  At the ends, I marked where the existing (but temporarily removed) bulkhead trim would pass, so I could later cut the new overhead trim accordingly.

At the forward (at least) deadlight locations, it looked like I’d later need to trim the trim to fit around the inside port trim rings; I’d dig these out of storage and make some marks before I removed the trim for finishing later.

To finish up the overhead trim, I needed to mill a series of 1-1/2″ wide, 1/4″ thick pieces for the task, so after measuring up a basic list of the required pieces, I used some of my last cherry boards to mill the trim, taking the usual several steps to dimension, resaw, and plane to final thickness enough pieces for the job.  This set me up well for next time, but with another commitment I had to depart once the milling work was complete.

Total time billed on this job today:    5.5 hours

0600 Weather observation:  32°, cloudy, snow, another inch or so from overnight.  (Where was all this snow when it was actually wanted?)  Forecast for the day:  Snow showers ending, then cloudy, 42°

 

Tuesday

The original main cabin overhead, part of the molded full interior liner, was in atrocious condition, peppered with numerous hardware access holes and a devastatingly bad opening at the aft side above the galley.  There are numerous photos elsewhere in these pages to document the existing condition of the overhead, but now my task was to construct a cosmetic covering to hide the nasty, while still allowing access for future hardware installations and the like.  I chose 1/4″ (6mm) marine plywood for the task, which I’d paint to match the rest of the cabin.

I did some basic figuring to determine how many, and what size, panels I should use; each seam would require trim to cover the butt joints and fasteners required, so from that perspective fewer sheets would be better.  But practical considerations and logistics dictated smaller panels, and the companionway opening limited the maximum width to no more than 31″ under any circumstance.  The companionway hatch itself also formed a sort of natural end point that demanded to be factored into the overall panel (and ultimately the trim) size.

In the end, I decided to break the largest part of the overhead–between the companionway hatch and the main bulkhead–into three sections per side, or six pieces.  Then, the after portions of the overhead would require a few additional pieces to complete.

These photos date to March 4, 2019, and show some early layout that I’d done at that time.  This basic layout was still valid now, and shows the spaces at work here.

These calculations led me to a panel width of 19-7/8″, and rough lengths of around 52″ to bring me to centerline while allowing extra material for scribing and trimming.  With the first panel cut to size, I fit it in place on the port forward side, next to the bulkhead, and pressed it into the sharp curvature with a deadman cut to length, which held the panel in position so I could work.

The square end of the panel didn’t even come close enough to the shape of the cabin trunk side for me to scribe, so I made a basic measurement, removed the panel, and cut the rough angle required to bring the panel closer to the cabin trunk so I could scribe the final shape of the outboard edge, which I did next and, after cutting the shape (with a bevel to match the angle between overhead and cabin trunk), fit the panel in place for final marking of the centerline of the boat, where the panel would end.

Now I removed the first panel, and repeated the fitting process on the starboard side, though this time I cut the raw angle on the outboard edge first to make it easier to scribe.

After cutting both panels to length for the centerline, I secured each with screws along the edges, directly into the old fiberglass liner.  There was ample space between the liner and the underside of the actual deck for the screws.

I repeated this process with the second set of panels, eventually securing these with screws as well.

The third set of panels had to butt against the existing companionway opening trim on the starboard side, and this dictated the final width of both panels in this pair–just a bit narrower than the first two sets.  The forward trim of the companionway wasn’t square or entirely straight, but I didn’t try to fit the panel exactly since the edge would be trimmed in any case.  After going through all the various fitting steps for both sides of this section, the main, and largest, section of the overhead was complete.

The port after section above the galley required two panels running between the companionway opening (off-center to starboard) and the edge of the cabin trunk.  The general size of these panels fit in and coordinated with that of the three panels in the main section, which was one reason I’d chosen the widths I did in the first place.

The first section in the galley was straightforward enough.

The final piece here required some additional fitting, since it had to fit around the molded area surrounding the large port in the aft side of the cabin, as well as some cuts around the companionway itself.  For this, I used some pattern plywood to mark and fit the various edges first, after which I transferred the shapes to the actual plywood for the overhead.  I mistakenly cut the template piece for the outboard side shorter than intended, but this was of little matter in the end; I just had to measure between my two template pieces and transfer that measurement accordingly.

After a few minor cutting manipulations to get the final piece to fit properly at some of the fussier corners, particularly the flat area around the opening port, I fit the final panel in place as per all the others.

This left only a small section on the starboard side, which I’d finish up next time.

Total time billed on this job today:    8 hours

0600 Weather observation:  32°, cloudy, about 4-5″ of snow down after yesterday.  Forecast for the day: Mainly cloudy, 37°

Monday

With the current round of varnish work complete, I spent the first part of the day removing all the masking tape.  Afterwards, I reinstalled all the small trim pieces, which I’d removed for varnishing.

To complete the cuts on the side rails for the new companionway ladder, I took one of the rails up into the boat and set it in place, using a piece of 3/8″ plywood to hold the base off the existing sole an appropriate amount (1/4″ for the finished sole, plus 1/8″).  With the piece properly positioned, I used a straightedge to mark the height and angle at the top, where it met the companionway threshold.

Back at the saw, I clamped both side pieces together and made the top cut.  Then, at the top I marked a rounded corner reminiscent of the original piece and cut and sanded the curve smooth before rounding the edges of the new cuts and sanding everything smooth once more.  The finished height of the new piece is slightly different than the original because the new cabin sole, with its thicker substrate and cherry veneer atop, would be slightly higher than the original sole, which was thinner to begin with, even with its finished veneer.

Now I could assemble the ladder permanently.   After solvent-washing the bonding areas as needed, I began by spreading waterproof glue on the bottom slots, and installing the lower step, aligning the back edge properly with the rabbet in the side rails and clamping it in place.  For the moment, I left off the back panel, since its absence made it easier to install, align, and glue the treads.  One step at a time, I glued and clamped in the treads, and once all four were in place, I inserted the back panel in the rabbets.  Because I didn’t want this panel permanently installed yet (I planned to paint it white to offset the treads and match the original appearance), I masked off the edge that sat in the rabbet, but the panel was important to ensure proper alignment of the whole unit while the glue set up.

Leaving the companionway assembly to cure, I turned to the forward storage compartment beneath the v-berth.  Because it was handy to stand in this area when working on the trim and varnish in this area, I’d purposely left it unfinished for the duration, but with the bulk of the work now complete up there, it was time to wrap up the work in the locker.  After vacuuming and solvent-washing the whole space, including the far reaches at the aft end beneath the molded liner and cabin sole above, I installed a series of heavy wire tie mounts along the top edges of the space on both sides.  I’d use these later for supporting windlass cabling and whatever else was required, but I had to install them now since the adhesive used with the system didn’t stick well to paint.

While I waited for that adhesive to cure, I installed the six round cherry vents in the settee and v-berth locker sides, where I’d cut holes previously.  I’d already finished these vents with varnish, and now installed them with small screws.

I’d had the new holding and water tanks on hand for a couple weeks, and with the recent flurry of trim and finishing work out of the way for now, it was time to get these tanks installed.  To that end, I’d ordered various fittings that I planned (hoped) to use for each tank, but when I set the holding tank in place on the platform I’d built, I quickly discovered that my original fittings configuration wasn’t going to work because of a lack of clearance; in my mind’s eye, there was more room above the tank than in reality, and my plan for the tank discharge wasn’t going to fit as I’d hoped.

This didn’t pose a big problem; it just meant that I’d have to await further installation steps with this tank till I could get different fittings that would work at the discharge (i.e. forward, or left in this photo) end of the tank, since it was easier to spin on the various fittings while I could still move the tank around.  I ordered the required fittings and would continue the tank installation as soon as they arrived.

The smallish water tank planned for the space near the galley was an easy fit in the locker, and the fittings I’d planned for this tank worked as intended, so I moved on with final installation.  I’d originally planned to have the tank sit near the aft end of the after compartment beneath the settee, but the tank seemed to nestle perfectly into a spot a bit further forward, beneath the divider between the locker lids, and this also worked better because it improved vertical clearance for the tank inlet and vent, and also left the aft end of the space more open for better usage and access to a yet-to-be-installed foot pump near the galley.

To secure the tank, I cut cleats from leftover teak stock on hand, and after preparations epoxied the cleats in place around the tank base.  These cleats, along with the inside of the settee itself, would hold the tank in place in four directions, but to hold the tank firmly down against the hull I ordered a strap that I’d install later to secure the tank completely.

Now that the day was getting on, it was time to paint the forward locker; I’d left this task till late since the paint fumes from this paint are strong.

The companionway had been clamped for several hours now, and the glue was dry, so I unclamped the assembly and removed the back panel, then drilled for and installed four screws into each tread (two per side) to add strength to the whole thing.  Afterwards, I bunged all the screw holes.

Total time billed on this job today:   8.25 hours

0600 Weather observation:  32°, cloudy, light snow showers.  Forecast for the day:  Snow, 3-5″predicted, 34°

 

Saturday

Because of unforeseen circumstances during the week that forced my absence from the shop, I’d fallen behind where I’d hoped to be, especially with the interior varnish, so I planned to make up some time and progress over the weekend.  With 4-5 good coats of gloss base varnish on all the trim, all that remained was a final coating of satin varnish to complete the work on the trim installed so far.

After the usual sanding and cleanup, I applied the satin finish.  Later, once the varnish had a chance to dry, I took photos of the results, which looked good, though I planned a careful final inspection before deeming the coating complete in these areas.

Now that I had all the basic pieces cut for the companionway ladder, I continued work on the new treads, trimming each to its final width (about 1/4″ deeper than the slots in each case, leaving a small overhang) and rounding the exposed outer edges for appearance and smoothness.

I cut the handhold slot in the outboard ladder rail with a drill bit and saw, and rounded the edges with a router before also easing the other exposed edges of the side rails accordingly, then sanded these parts smooth and clean as well, leaving them ready for final trimming (the side rails were still a few inches long at the top awaiting a final fitting) and ladder assembly next time.

Total time billed on this job today:  5 hours

0600 Weather observation:  34°, cloudy, a slushy coating of snow overnight.  Forecast for the day:  Gradual clearing, 50s

Friday

With another limited day available, I focused first on the interior trim varnish, with another round of sanding to prepare for the fourth coat of gloss base varnish on all areas.

I was ready to commit to the ladder treads on the new companionway ladder, but before making the dado cuts in the side rails to accept the eventual treads, I used some scrap to simulate the tread at the angle I’d chosen, which was 90° to the back edge of the side rails and gave the treads a backwards angle for better grip.  Satisfied with the visuals, I committed and set up the table saw with a 3/4″ dado cutter and, after some testing on scrap to get the depth where I wanted it, carefully made the eight cuts required (four on each side).  

Next, I clamped up the side rails with the plywood back so I could work on the treads.   I selected some boards from which to cut the blanks for the treads, and milled four blanks into slightly over-length and over-width pieces for the task.  The stock itself was a bit thicker than 3/4″ (the thickness of my slots in the side rails), so I planed them all down to the proper dimension to fit snugly.  I used a scrap of the same material to determine the proper length to fit between the rails and in the slots.

Having determined the correct length, I cut all the blanks as needed and fit them in place, clamping up the assembly dry to check the fit and overall appearance of the new ladder.  The treads were still deeper than necessary, which I’d intended so I could  mark and trim them accordingly.  For the moment, I was out of time, but I marked the treads where they extended beyond the sides of the ladder, and would soon trim them and finish up related steps so I could think about assembling the ladder for good.

Total time billed on this job today:  4 hours

0600 Weather observation:  20°, clear.  Forecast for the day:  Increasing clouds, 42°