(page 63 of 165)

Lively Heels Phase 3-27

Monday

After a few coats of varnish, the new shelves were ready for final installation.  With the support cleats already in place, installation was relatively straightforward, with a few screws on each side of both shelves to secure them to the cleats.

Next, I installed matching cherry fiddles on the two original shelves, using glue and screws on the main shelf midway up the compartment, and, because there was no access beneath for screws, glue only on the lowest shelf fiddle, which I held in place with clamps while the glue cured.  These fiddles were designed to help hold in the storage bins the owner planned to use, but with minimal height clearance on some of the shelves the fiddles couldn’t be too high lest they prevent the bins from being removed or installed.

Later, once the glue had enough time to cure, I removed the clamps from the lower fiddle and test-fit the three bins the owner had left, which completed this small project.

Total time billed on this job today :  1.5 hours (including varnishing time)

0600 Weather Observation:  36°, light rain.  Forecast for the day:   Showers and rain, 45°, becoming sharply colder overnight

Lively Heels Phase 3-26

Friday

During the week, as time allowed, I continued work on the cockpit storage box fairing, starting with the newly-sanded first coat that I’d left from the weekend.

Second round of fairing:

Another round of light sanding, then a third, minor, coat of fairing:

One more round of finish sanding brought the cockpit box to ready-for-primer state.

At the holding tank, I installed a 45° elbow at the top of the pumpout tee to provide better access:  The original setup  had been somewhat impeded by the hose directly above, an oversight that could easily have been (but wasn’t) avoided with a slightly different location for the fitting in the tank.  Fortunately, the elbow made for a quick and successful fix.

Continuing the closet shelving project, I transferred the marks from my cardboard patterns to a sheet of 12mm marine plywood and cut out the new shelves, which fit well on the first try other than needing to cut out a little corner of the top shelf to allow for some wiring to pass.

For all the shelves, to help hold the proposed storage bins in place while still allowing the bins to be removed (more of a concern with the lower shelves where clearances were tighter), I milled 1″ tall fiddles from cherry and cut them to length to span the widths of each shelves, including the two original shelves still in place.  These fiddles would also add strength and stiffness to the relatively wide shelves.  With the two new shelves available on the bench, I chose to install these fiddles now, using glue and screws.  I’d install the remaining fiddles on the other shelves in place a little later.

In keeping with the existing shelves, I chose to finish the new shelves with varnish, which looked pretty good even on the meranti plywood but more importantly would provide protection going forward.  I applied a thinned sealer coat of varnish to both sides of the new shelves, supporting them on some simple spikey things I use from time to time, and also finished the two new fiddles for the existing shelves.

Total time billed on this job today (and preceding days):  3.25 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  15°, clear.  Forecast for the day:   Sunny, 30°.

Lyra 27

Friday

I began the day with some light and quick sanding chores in the cockpit and generator locker, cleaning up the scupper openings, a small patch on the vertical repair to the lazarette opening, and lightly scuffing the new fiberglass on the generator platform.  I also cut off flush the old engine exhaust in the lazarette to prepare it for patching.

With the generator in place in the locker, I measured for some chocks that would help hold it securely for storage.  With a chock at each side of the new platform, plus the backstay chainplate (which held the generator securely at the aft end), and a simple lashing to secure the unit to the back side of the cockpit (where I planned to add some fittings to secure a lashing or strap), the generator wouldn’t move when not in use, yet would be easy to access and remove when needed.  I prepared two chocks from some scrap hardwood to fit the ends of the platform.

After final preparations, I epoxied the new wooden chocks in place, coating all surfaces of the wood with epoxy as well.

Meanwhile, I masked over the exterior of the old engine exhaust and filled it from within with an epoxy mixture.  Later I planned to cut off the exterior end flush.

Moving on, I turned to the forward hatch final installation.  After marking and predrilling all the fastener locations, I secured the hatch permanently with plenty of sealant and 20 screws, cleaning up the excess sealant squeezeout afterwards.  I’d leave the protective paper on the hatch for the duration of the project.

Inside the opening, I planned later to clean up and paint the exposed inner deck edge to finish it off.

In the cabin, I prepared the cabin sole and masked along the edges to protect the white paint.  I used a delicate-surface tape to be sure not to damage the fresh paint.  Afterwards, I applied a coat of the same light gray paint I used in the lockers and bilges.  This would give the new paint plenty of cure time over the weekend before any potential traffic.

Total time billed on this job today:  3.75 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  15°, clear.  Forecast for the day:   Sunny, 30°.

Lyra 26

Thursday

Having cured overnight, the forward hatch frame was ready for unclamping.  I’d soon install the new hatch to complete this task.

Following some light prep work in the generator compartment, I cut two layers of heavy fiberglass to sheathe and tab in the shelf, then installed them in epoxy resin.  The new fiberglass  overlapped the hull at the aft end by several inches, and wrapped up the back side of the cockpit well by a few inches as well.

The owner wanted to build the hatch for the new generator compartment, so I made up a simple plywood template I could give him that accurately portrayed the size of the coaming, and the shape of the surrounding deck.  Using roughly 1/8″ thick stir sticks as spacers between the coaming and the inside of the template (representing the minimum inside dimensions of the hatch), I built the raw template in place from 2″ wide strips of 9mm (3/8″) plywood and hot glue, adding stiffeners as needed.  Then, I scribed the shape of the deck on  all sides.

Down on the bench, I cut the template to my scribe lines as needed, and trimmed the overhanging braces and ends of the box.  I fine-tuned the shaping with a couple test-fits on deck to improve the fit after my initial cuts and shaping.  I made some additional reference marks and measurements to highlight various clearances to nearby obstructions, such as the curvy part of the traveler area, and the stern light molding behind, which might affect portions of the build.  Then, I marked the actual inside height of the coaming on the template as a final reference.

Looking to wrap up a few loose ends before I turned my full attention in the coming week to the cabin and the beginnings of systems installations–including scupper drain hoses, which, because of access issues, needed to be installed before the rest of the interior could be completed–I worked on the cockpit scuppers, which were still in rough form following the bulk cockpit work earlier.  Now, I reopened the holes in the cockpit corners with a hole saw and beveled them with a countersink before adding a bit more epoxy fairing compound in the corners and around and inside the drain openings to fine-tune the appearance and function.

In the cabin, I added some screws through the cabin sole and into the new cleats in various places to strengthen the joints and, as needed, cleaned up some epoxy squeezeout here and there and otherwise prepared the sole and cleats for painting in the immediate future.  The cabin sole itself, built from plywood with a fiberglass overlay, was in rather sketchy condition, the original plywood having lost much of its structural integrity over the years, and since it was generally just sound enough despite that (if far from good), and wholesale replacement wasn’t feasible at this time given the other more pressing needs of the project scope, I added some cross stiffeners below the sole in key points to help prevent flexing:  Just some scrap pieces of prefab fiberglass that happened to fit beneath the sole and could be tightly wedged into position.  With no real access beneath, these stopgaps would hopefully extend usefully the life of the existing sole for some modicum of time.

Total time billed on this job today:  5 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  40°, mostly clear.  Forecast for the day:   Sunny and windy, temperature dropping.

Skeedeen Phase 6-39

Wednesday

To replace the broken and cheesy plastic engine room vents that I’d removed early in the project, the owner had had some new bronze vents made, and now that the boat was temporarily indoors at another shop where the engine was being installed, it was a good time to go install the new vents.

The new vents were different than the old, but had used the originals as a guide for the bolting pattern and to fit properly over the openings in the hull.   Installation was a relatively straightforward process since I’d prepared the openings and hole locations with solid epoxy during the hull project earlier.  For each of the two vents, I followed this process:  Lay out the plate on the hull; drill and tap eight screw holes for 5/16″ machine screws (larger than needed but that’s how the fabricator made the vents); mill small countersinks at the top of each hole in the hull; install sealant; install vent with eight screws and clean up.

When I finished installing the vents, I realized that I’d installed the backwards, so I had to remove both, flip then so the slots faced aft, and reinstall.  The correct orientation is shown in the final two photos of this series.

Total time billed on this job today:  2 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  32°, mostly clear.  Forecast for the day:   Increasing clouds, 46°

Back to Skeedeen

Lyra 25

Wednesday

After being away from the shop all morning to finish up a small job offsite, I got back to work in the afternoon on the forward hatch, ready now for the final installation after some final masking to the hatch frame itself.

I installed the hatch frame in a bed of thickened epoxy adhesive, securing the frame with clamps as needed to press it into the epoxy and to keep it level from side to side.  I cleaned up the excess epoxy and shaped it as needed inside and out, then removed all the masking tape leaving clean lines everywhere.  I left the frames in the clamps to cure overnight.

Next, I prepared and installed the plywood platform in the generator compartment, now that the support cleat at the forward end was in place.  After surface preparations, I epoxied the bottom (hidden) side of the platform, then installed it in a bed of thickened epoxy adhesive at both sides, forming fillets as needed to smooth the transition to the hull and at the cockpit end.  I used a couple small lead weights to hold the platform securely against the hull, as it tended to rock slightly.

Afterwards, having already masked off around the hatch coaming again, I cleaned up the original fillets with some more epoxy, just to improve appearance and make the fillets consistent all around.  I removed the tape afterwards to leave a clean line.

Total time billed on this job today:  2.5 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  32°, mostly clear.  Forecast for the day:   Increasing clouds, 46°

Lyra 24

Tuesday

I’d planned to spend the day on the second coat of interior paint, but after careful inspection of all areas, and as critically as possible, I couldn’t find any reason why it would be necessary or even beneficial:  The finish on the first coat was so good as to obviate it, and I couldn’t find a notable fault.  Happy, if a bit surprised, to save the effort, I removed the masking tape and left the paint alone to continue curing before getting into any more interior work.  I planned to paint the cabin sole late in the week, which would give it the weekend to cure.

After some unrelated nits and nats during the morning, I got back to work on the generator storage area.  To test-fit the bottom platform in its final position, I used hot glue to mount a pair of temporary support blocks on the aft side of the cockpit well inside the locker, on which I could rest the plywood platform to check its angle properly against the “natural” angle of the generator in repose.  I ended up using a couple extra scraps of wood to raise the platform just a bit further, which worked pretty well and appeared to support the generator when installed.

After removing the temporary blocks and cleaning the bonding area, I installed with epoxy adhesive a 24″ hardwood cleat at the proper location; this would eventually support the inner edge of the new shelf.

For protection, I masked off the deck around the hatch opening, then installed the fiberglass hatch coaming permanently with thickened epoxy, forming a fillet around the outer edge and removing the tape when complete.  During an earlier work session, I’d already sanded away the paint from this narrow border to give the epoxy something real to bond to.

In a similar vein, I made final preparations towards the forward hatch installation.  Using the now-varnished hatch frame as a guide, I masked along its perimeter on the deck.  This gave me a line inside of which I needed to sand away the various paints to expose gelcoat for bonding.  With a sander, I could brush up against and slightly over the tape without causing damage to the adjacent areas, and remove the coatings within.  Inside the cabin, I used delicate surface tape and plastic to cover the opening and prevent sanding dust from going inside on the new paint.

Now I temporarily reinstalled the frame once more, and masked around it again, this time as protection against the epoxy I’d use to secure the frame to the deck in the near future.

Total time billed on this job today:  4 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  30°, partly clear, a crusty inch or two of snow from overnight.  Forecast for the day:   Partly sunny, 41°

Lively Heels Phase 3-25

Monday

After some shipping delays, the straps I’d ordered for the holding tank arrived, and with an afternoon available I looked forward to finishing the installation.

I began by reinstalling the modified port divider in the holding tank compartment.

After determining how to position the new angled base platform to allow room for the stainless eye straps that would hold the ratchet straps to secure the tank, I installed the platform with eight screws, four to a side, through predrilled holes in the platform, and with slight recesses to accept the screw head and a washer.  I secured the eye straps to the sole substrate with screws and pre-attached both ends of the ratchet straps, which featured stainless steel buckles and carabiners at the ends.

Now I could put the tank in place.  The tank fit easily through the overhead hatch, as planned, and soon it was in position.  However, I immediately ran into a problem.  Because of the various tank fittings, the hold-down straps only worked in two obvious areas where the way was clear–no problem there.  I’d used these positions to locate the eye straps and ratchet straps in the compartment.  What I’d not foreseen was a twofold problem:  First the starboard strap and ratchet buckle ended up interfering with the saltwater washdown pump and its filter housing, which were located on the bulkhead just ahead.  This meant there wasn’t clearance to operate the ratchet, and it also posed an ongoing clearance issue for the filter assembly.

In addition, the two ratchet buckles ended up closer to the top corner of the tank than I’d wanted, by virtue of the 12″ dead end measurement of these (and most similar) straps.  The starboard buckle, notwithstanding the filter issue, was more or less OK because the tank was higher on this side because of the angled platform.  But the port buckle (not shown here) ended up awkwardly and unacceptably at and just above the corner of the tank, and tensioning it in that position would likely tend to put undue pressure on the tank itself.

In a vacuum, as it happened, I could have made the starboard problem work, since the filter assembly and hose from the pump were actually easy to remove at a whim thanks to the design of the pump housing (a little plastic clip holds things in place).  So by removing the filter and hose assembly, I had enough room to operate the ratchet, and then reinstall the filter.  But this still wasn’t ideal, and in the end the fix for the port side worked a treat for the starboard as well.

The fix was to take the carabiners on the buckle side of the ratchet out of the picture.  Fortunately, I could remove easily enough the eye straps and slip the sewn loop of the ratchet strap over the eye, then re-secure the eyes.  Because the carabiners were permanantly attached, with the webbing sewn though a closed eye in the hooks, I couldn’t remove them, so I taped them above the webbing loop and out of the way to keep them from flopping around loosely.

This had the net effect of lowering the buckles by close to three inches at each location, which solved both issues nicely:  On the starboard side, the buckle was now below and clear of the pump housing (check); and on the port side, the buckle was now nicely below the tank corner where it could be safely tensioned (check).  This was a relief.  Now I could strap down the tank properly and finally, using some strips of 1/4″ thick rubber (left over from the first attempt at the new anchor pad on the stem) as chafe gear beneath the straps.

Continuing, I moved on to the hose connections, which were straightforward and didn’t take long, and went according to plan.  I secured the loop from the tank discharge to the nearby  pump with a pair of clamps to hold it securely and avoid any undue tension on the fittings at either end.  Afterwards, I reinstalled the water lines to the head shower setup, which I’d removed for access early in the project, cut off the excess strap length from the tank hold-downs, and wrapped up other details in the space to call this installation complete.

Total time billed on this job today:  3 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  12°, partly clear.  Forecast for the day:   Mostly cloudy, snow and rain in the afternoon and evening, 35 °

Lyra 23

Monday

Everything was ready to go, so I got right to work applying the first coat of semi-gloss white enamel to all interior surfaces, starting in the forward cabin.

Onwards to the head!

And finally, the main cabin, and then the loose hatches I’d removed to the bench.  This paint would cure to a soft satin finish.

Total time billed on this job today:  4.25 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  12°, partly clear.  Forecast for the day:   Mostly cloudy, snow and rain in the afternoon and evening, 35 °

Lively Heels Phase 3-24

Saturday

After a brief round of sanding to the first coat of fairing filler on the cockpit box, I set it aside, planning to add the second coat of fairing later in the day, but I didn’t end up getting around to it after all.

I’d hoped to use the day to finish up the holding tank installation, but alas, hub-related weather delays at FedEx had tied up the straps I’d ordered for the task, which were now days late but supposedly in my state at least, so I hoped they’d be delivered soon.  Instead, I turned to a wholly different project:  Some additional shelving in the large locker forward of the galley, across from the head.  Here, I’d originally, during the main project years before, installed just two shelves, mainly because of time constraints:  a low shelf, which had originally been intended and sized to hold an ice chest; and a large shelf about halfway up.  Now the owner was more than ready to have this space better available and more useful for the large amount of storage it could hold.

Earlier, the owner had mocked up some plastic storage bins he hoped to use in the space, and these would dictate the relative placement of two new shelves.  Using these bins as a guide, and allowing for room to pass the bins over fiddles at the inboard ends of the shelves (to be installed later), I determined the location for new shelf support cleats and made various measurements for the cleats themselves.  Most crucial was allowing room for the two bins in the lower space–the large bin (shown here) on the lower shelf, and a shorter bin to fit in an upper shelf.  There was enough room for both, but not a lot of room for leeway.

The new uppermost shelf would fit just at the space in the closet where the cabin trunk began, and would be much shallower than the other shelves below it, which extended all the way to the hull below deck level.  With the measurements complete, I milled four new shelf supports from scrap hardwood, along with some new shelf fiddles to help secure the storage bins, and prepared and sanded these all smooth before installing the cleats on the bulkheads for each new shelf.

After some basic measurements, I cut cardboard roughly to size to fit each new shelf location loosely, and scribed the actual shape and dimensions of the two shelves directly on the cardboard mockups, which I would then use to cut the actual plywood shelving to fit accurately.  With the cardboard “shelves” in place, I mocked up the storage bins in the lower shelves to illustrate their fit.

That was all I had time for at the moment, but one more good work session ought to see the shelf project to completion.

Total time billed on this job today:  2.5 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  23°, cloudy.  Forecast for the day:   Cloudy, chance of show showers, 30°

Older posts Newer posts