(page 47 of 166)

Luna Mia 8

Friday

Continuing with the hull surface prep, I sanded the entire boat twice more, with 80-120 grit paper on a 6″ finishing sander.  This helped further refine the surface and smooth it to the required level for high-build primer.

Next, I went around the hull and checked for any dings, scratches, or other areas requiring attention and, after cleaning as needed, applied a coat of fine fairing filler to these areas.  There were only a half dozen or so tiny dings and scratches to be found.

At the transom, I added more fairing compound as needed around some of the repairs I’d started earlier, and applied additional fairing to the patch over the engine sail drive hole in the bottom, just to take care of a few known and minor voids left from the last round of fairing compound there.

Now, I worked on the transom to remove the remaining paint and sand smooth all the tight areas around the hardware and stern pulpit rails that I couldn’t reach with a power sander, as well as some detail sanding elsewhere on the boat, including the stem.  There’d be more sanding work on the transom to come next time, along with additional light sanding on the other parts of the hull as needed, but for the moment I’d progressed things as much as possible.

Total time billed on this job today:  3.5 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  26°, clear.  Forecast for the day:  Partly sunny, 46°

Luna Mia 7

Thursday

It was time to get down to business on the main aspect of this project:  The hull.  With the deck protected and masked and nothing standing in my way, I spent the day removing the existing coatings from the hull, sanding through two grits to get back to the original blue gelcoat and a suitable substrate for the new coatings to come.  The existing paint was a one-part product of undetermined type, with primer beneath, and was generally easy to remove, with no surprises underneath; in fact, the hull was in excellent condition all around, save for a few shallow scrapes and the like that would either disappear during the next round of final finish sanding, or with some minor fill work.  The repairs I’d made on the transom would require a bit more final work, but I already knew that.

Starting at the bow and working aft on the starboard side, then around the transom and back to the port bow, I removed all the paint and vinyl striping by the end of the day, other than some tight areas on the transom that would require hand work.

Total time billed on this job today:  5.25 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  22°, mainly clear.  Forecast for the day:  Patchy fog, then mostly sunny, 46°

Lyra Phase 2-50

Wednesday

I sanded the new fiberglass patches over three transducer locations, sanding the new work smooth and flush with the adjacent hull.  Inside the boat, I lightly scuffed the patchwork only to remove hard or sharp edges.  Then, I troweled on a layer of epoxy fairing compound on the exterior patches, which were all close to their final contours.

Next, it was time for the first, not-quite-final dodger installation.   Because Jason’s shop was so close by, he chose to leave various aspects of the final fitting incomplete since it was so straightforward and quick to come back another time; this gave him more leeway in ensuring the best possible fit in some of the tough areas, particularly the transition from the cabin trunk to the protruding coamings.

After permanently installing the deck track to support the leading edge of the dodger, the canvas–90% complete–could be fitted on the frame and tracks, after which Jason worked out the positioning for the strapeyes to secure the dodger wings and, with little temporary grommets, secured the wings as needed before moving on to the snaps required along the cabin trunk and at the forward coaming corners.  This gave him the information he needed to work out the final steps for the sharp transition at the coamings.  He also double-checked the alignment of the opening required on the starboard side to allow passage of the main halyard through the front of the dodger and made a tiny adjustment to his patterned mark by eye, sighting from the winch forward to the turning block (the outboard of thee two tiny white marks on the canvas is the center of the new hole).

Allowing for the final fitting details and a few small areas requiring finish work, the dodger looked excellent and would be a fine addition to the looks and utility of the boat.  Final fitting should be within a few days.

Taking care of the final item on my punch list, I installed the two plywood shelves in the cabin that the owner had dry-fit earlier.  These shelves, which rested on a support I’d laid out and installed during phase 1, would eventually form the basis for the remaining cabinet work in the cabin.  To install them, I began by coating the faying surfaces with regular epoxy, then installed the shelves in a bed of thickened epoxy adhesive on the hull supports and wooden cleats the owner had installed on the bulkheads; I added a wooden cleat to support the aft end of the port shelf where it conjoined the existing galley countertop overhang.  I clamped the shelf at the ends and added weights in the center to ensure it stayed in place on the supports (though no pressure was needed since the shelving fit nicely on the supports).  Where the plywood met the hull, I created a small fillet (not shown here is the masking tape I’d applied just above shelf level before installation, to give me a clean line for the fillet).

Total time billed on this job today:  2 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  22°, high overcast.  Forecast for the day:  Mostly cloudy, chance of snow in the evening, 36°

Luna Mia 6

Wednesday

For future reference in re-establishing the waterline, should it be sanded away during the hull prep, I made several reference measurements at the stem and stern, using conveniently-mounted U-bolts to measure from at both transom corners and at the stem.  I noted these measurements for later edification.

The boat was slightly crooked on the trailer bunks, and thus a bit out of level from side to side.  There was no way to reposition the boat on the trailer itself, so I jacked up the port side as needed to level the boat, and blocked the trailer under both sides to supplement the rear trailer jacks and better stabilize the trailer for the upcoming work.

At the bow, I put some blocks beneath the hull for support since I needed to retract the bow chock for access to the hull, and the blocking would limit any tendency of the hull to move around during the sanding work to come.  I removed the extra-wide bow chock supports from the metal bracket to increase clearance.

At the stern, I removed the folding portion of the boarding ladder from the starboard side, and masked from within an outboard wiring hole on the port upper corner after removing its temporary plastic cover.  Then, after cleaning the rubrail and edge of the deck, I covered the decks with plastic and heavily masked along the rubrail above the hull.  There’d be more masking required for paint at the transom to cover the various hardware, but I waited on that for now since any tape would probably get damaged during the sanding operations.

Total time billed on this job today:  3 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  22°, high overcast.  Forecast for the day:  Mostly cloudy, chance of snow in the evening, 36°

Luna Mia 5

Tuesday

Finishing up in the cockpit for now, I sanded the epoxy skim coat flat and smooth, removing the excess and working through various grits and different tools before eventually ending up at 120 grit on a finishing sander as needed for primer and paint.  With the major repair work and surface prep complete for now, I planned to turn my focus to the hull prep and paint and would return to the various small deck projects and refinishing once the hull was complete.

Total time billed on this job today:   1.25 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  35°, clear and windy.  Forecast for the day:  Sunny, 36°

Lyra Phase 2-49

Tuesday

Continuing the patching of the old transducer locations, I began by masking over the openings from inside, then, outside, filling the round holes through the hull with a thickened and strengthened epoxy mixture.  While I gave that a bit of time to set up enough to continue, I cut rounds of fiberglass to create the patches:  Two outside, one inside.  Later in the morning, once the epoxy plugs had set up sufficiently, I wet out and installed the fiberglass on both sides to complete the main part of the repairs.

Next, I installed the new vinyl for the name, hailport, and registration numbers.  The owner selected a gold leaf vinyl with white outline for the name and port, and white vinyl for the state numbers.

I was waiting for delivery of the correct screws to secure the sea hood, but in the meantime I finished up the dry fit and preparations, first by redrilling from below the two screw holes I’d used all along for alignment.  For the remaining fastener locations, I could just drill through the center of the epoxy-filled plugs at each location from above, before temporarily installing the sea hood with the pair of aftermost screws.  Then, I drilled up into the wooden sides from below, just enough to make a mark as I wanted to be sure the holes were centered or otherwise properly placed.

Removing the sea hood again, I finished drilling the pilot holes in the wood, and took a moment to drive a screw in and out of each hole to prepare fore the final installation and ensure I had no troubles installing the screws from beneath.  Later in the afternoon, once my screws arrived (#10 x 1-3/4″ flat head tapping screws), I installed the sea hood in a bed of brown sealant, keeping the sealant away from the drain openings.  I cleaned up the excess sealant, then installed the dodger frame and mounting bases in their pre-marked holes leftover from the initial fitting in December.

Final dodger work lay soon ahead.

Total time billed on this job today:  4  hours

0600 Weather Observation:  35°, clear and windy.  Forecast for the day:  Sunny, 36°

Lyra Phase 2-48

Monday

After an errand to pick up the newly-varnished coamings and sea hood from the owner’s home, I got to work on their installation, beginning with the coamings.  This was straightforward and quick, as these had been installed previously and it was a relatively simple matter of applying sealant (butyl tape) and screwing the coamings into position.

With the sea hood repositioned on the coachroof, and secured temporarily with the two screws that I’d installed a couple months before when the dodger was being patterned, I masked around the edges to mark the position and, later, to protect against excess sealant during installation.  I also marked the sea hood scupper locations with pieces of tape for future reference.  Then, I removed the hood again so I could prepare the fastener locations in the deck.

Using a narrower strip of tape to simulate the thickness of the sea hood, I marked in the center of the marked area for various screw holes all around the perimeter:  four on each side (spaced away from the drain locations), and four along the forward edge.   Since the coachroof was cored, I needed to overbore, remove the core, and epoxy-fill each fastener location first, so I drilled a small pilot hole through the top skin only, followed by a 5/8″ Forstner bit to remove the top skin and core from around each fastener location, leaving the bottom skin intact.  Though I’d inspected the coachroof two different times over the course of this project and wasn’t expecting any issues, I was still happy to see clean, bright core spoils at each hole location.

After cleaning up the spoils and preparing all the holes, I filled the voids with a thickened epoxy mixture and left it to cure before continuing with the final sea hood installation another time.

Meanwhile, the owner had given me a few additional small tasks to take care of, starting with removing three obsolete and abandoned transducers (one depth, two speed) from the hull.  One older bronze speed unit was located on the starboard side, accessible from within through a drawer opening in the settee, and the other pair (plastic/nylon) was located on the opposite side.

As usual, I first tried to remove these in the logical way:  from inside, by removing the threaded fixing rings, i.e. the opposite of how they were installed in the first place.  This almost never works, at least not in any sort of practical or useful timeframe, and now was no exception.   It never makes sense to me to waste time fighting recalcitrant fittings with a wrench in an impossible location when in a few short minutes I can cut the whole fitting out from the outside, but it’s always worth trying first.

Having quickly abandoned the notion of unthreading these fittings, I moved outside and used a grinder and cutoff wheel to remove the pair of plastic fittings on the port side in about the same number of seconds:  I only like plastic through hulls and  transducers when I have to remove them from someone’s boat; otherwise I don’t think they’re worthy.  But they are easy to cut through and remove, and from this perspective they’re wonderful.

The single bronze speedo unit on the starboard side was a bit more time-consuming to remove, but not much.  Being bronze, of course it took a bit more work to cut free; also, this was a flush-fitting (more or less), without a large mushroom head but with the flange mostly recessed into the hull, but in only a few minutes it was out as well.

Next, I prepared the openings for patching by grinding away paint and gelcoat around each hole, preparing for a flush repair on the exterior with a dished, tapered opening, and a simpler surface patch over the hole on the inside, which only required that I remove the paint and old sealant from around the holes.  I also reamed out the holes themselves to remove old sealant.  I cleaned up from the work and prepared the holes for patchwork, but I wouldn’t do that till another day as I was running out of time at the moment.

While I was making a mess, I also sanded away the paint from the top edges of the shelf supports I’d built during phase 1 on each side of the saloon; the owner had cut some plywood shelving to fit and asked me to install them.  I’d finish up that small job another time as well.

The owner also asked that I install a through-deck connector fitting for his mast-mounted radar.  He already had the fitting on board, and it was a simple installation:  drill a hole through the deck large enough for the fitting, and install it with two screws from above.  The fitting came with a mounting gasket, and the design of the flange base didn’t allow room for anything in the way of real sealant, but I added some butyl tape to the portion running through the deck and to the screws when I installed them from above.  (The deck here was solid fiberglass.) The thickness of the deck exceeded the threaded length of the fitting available for the included metal trim/fixing ring, but there was still room for the plastic nut and the included cap; I thought I might look for a washer that would better cover the edges of the drilled hole on the inside and gussy things up, but I didn’t have anything this large on hand so this would wait till later.

Total time billed on this job today:   4 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  44°, clear.  Forecast for the day:  Rain in the afternoon, 44°

Luna Mia 4

Monday

Continuing the process with the various small repairs underway, I sanded all areas again as needed.  The sail drive mount hole and transom repairs were near their final contours, with a few low spots requiring minor attention that I’d finish up in the near future, and the stem repair work was complete other than some additional finish sanding and eventual painting, which I’d probably wait on till after the hull was painted.

However, my focus for the moment was the cockpit sole repair.  The main repair over the pedestal hole was more or less complete, with only some minor low areas remaining, but to deal with the overall cosmetics of the repair, the owner asked that I repaint the entire cockpit sole, which would best hide the repair work.  So to prepare for this, I sanded the nonskid over the entire sole, smoothing it as much as possible without abrading or otherwise getting into the smooth borders around the nonskid field.  The molded nonskid, as per usual, was essentially a raised area, so by maintaining the general height of this plateau the refinishing work would be similarly limited to the area in question.

This process brought the molded nonskid down to a relatively flat level, but not completely eliminated because of variations in the thickness of the molded gelcoat.  I’d average out the surface and achieve the desired smoothness by skim-coating and filling the remains of the molded pattern with fairing compound, so to begin I masked around the perimeter of the nonskid field, following the raised edge of the field, then coated the entire area in epoxy fairing compound, starting with the known low spots in the pedestal repair and continuing with a thin coat troweled over the entire surface, up to the tape on the edges.  I removed the tape thereafter, leaving a clean line, and left the material to cure overnight.

Total time billed on this job today:  1.25  hours

0600 Weather Observation:  44°, clear.  Forecast for the day:  Rain in the afternoon, 44°

Luna Mia 3

Friday

Continuing the various ongoing repairs to the hull and deck, I began with a round of sanding as necessary in all areas, starting with the hull patch at the old sail drive opening.

I continued with the sundry and small transom repairs, sanding smooth the filler I’d applied n the exterior, and lightly scuffing the new layer of fiberglass on the inside.

Next, I sanded smooth and flush the patch over the cockpit pedestal opening, and the filler on the stem.

After cleaning up and related prep and, as needed, masking, I applied epoxy fairing compound to these various areas:  The hull patch; the exterior transom; the cockpit patch; and the stem.

Total time billed on this job today:   2.5 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  -2°, clear.  Forecast for the day:  Increasing clouds, 26°

Luna Mia 2

Thursday

The initial fiberglass work on the transom was ready for some sanding to smooth and begin to fair the repairs in with the adjacent surfaces.  Inside the boat, I removed the tape “molds” from the back sides of the openings and lightly sanded those areas as well.

At the same time, I lightly sanded the inside and outside of the larger repair covering the old saildrive leg opening in the hull.

After cleanup, I made a simple pattern of the patch area on the bottom and cut two layers of fiberglass to fill it.  The exposed area of the patch required a light skim coat of a thickened epoxy mixture to fill small voids around the edges, after which I installed the two new layers of fiberglass over the entire area.

The transom repairs required a layer of fiberglass to cover the insides of the three patches, and I used more of the thickened epoxy mixture to skim over the patches on the exterior, the first round of filler needed for these areas.

Next, I turned to the repair of the old pedestal mount in the cockpit.  There was no practical access to the underside of this area for repair purposes, so I’d effect the entire repair from above.  To fill the square hole left from the pedestal mount, I cut a piece of 1/2″ thick prefab fiberglass to a friction fit in the opening, the installed it with epoxy adhesive all around, and used more of the mixture to skin the whole area and fill the smaller bolt holes as needed, which I’d previously taped over from beneath by reaching through the square hole.

Finally, I cut two layers of fiberglass to fit and installed them over the repair.

The last bit of minor deck repair was at the stem, where the owner had removed the mount for a Hoyt boom that he no longer used.  These old screw holes required patching, so I reamed them out, masked from beneath, and filled with a thickened epoxy mixture.

Total time billed on this job today:  4.25  hours

0600 Weather Observation:  23°, snow, 6″ down overnight and still coming.  Forecast for the day:  Snow, then snow showers, 32°

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