(page 108 of 167)

Dory 11

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Wednesday

Now that the two-part epoxy primer had cured overnight, I could continue with final preparations before the regular one-part primer that I planned to use over the entire boat.

Before priming, I decided to mask off a waterline, as I planned to paint the bottom for looks, contrast, and function.  Not knowing exactly where the boat would float, but having observed other dories over the years and thus with a general idea how the boat should float, I chose to strike a line from just barely above the knuckle at the stem and run it straight aft from there.

First, I leveled the boat fore and aft; I had to lift the bow several inches before the bottom was approximately level, not only according to the tool but also to the logical eyeball.  Then, I measured from the floor (smooth concrete and level enough for this purpose) to the point on the bow (12″), and made up a quick guide block of the same dimension.  I used this block and a pencil all around the boat to mark the new waterline in all areas, 12″ up from the floor, creating a level line around the boat.  I masked below the marks, and was ready for primer.

I chose a one-part primer from a small company that produces traditional paints for traditional boats–I also selected two of their topcoat enamels for the finish coats–and painted the entire boat inside and out. Despite the sundry shortfalls of my overall execution throughout the painting preparations, the new primer made an immediate difference to the feel and appearance of the dory, and it felt great to be making visual rather than structural progress on the boat.

Total time on this job today:  2.5 hours

Dory 10

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Tuesday

After a light sanding for the transom, which took care of the edges of the new material and also prepared the field for additional work, I used a two-part epoxy-based primer to pre-prime all the new fiberglass, including the various areas of fairing compound and other work, as a safeguard against problems with curing of other one-part paints over the fresh epoxy, which can be an issue.  If nothing else, using the epoxy primer helps to speed up the painting process rather than awaiting for some weeks the complete curing of epoxy resin required to ensure proper paint curing otherwise.

Total time on this job today:  .75 hour

Dory 9

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Monday

Now I sanded the new fiberglass, just enough to ease any hard, sharp edges and prepare the tabbing for the next steps.

Afterwards, I prepared a layer of 10 oz. cloth to sheathe the entire transom, running from the gunwale down below the top edge of the new bottom tabbing.  With the cloth cut oversize by a few inches in the top three dimensions (all but the lower edge), I wet the transom with epoxy resin, then pressed the cloth into position, holding the two side edges with some masking tape to keep them from wanting to peel away from the hull.  I wet out the dry cloth with a roller as needed, and finished the application with a brush and air roller as required.

I wrapped the edges of the material a couple inches around each transom corner, leaving the dry cloth beyond for later trimming, along with the oversized top edges, all of which I cut with a sharp knife a few hours later once the resin had cured to green stage.

Total time on this job today:  2.25 hours

Dory 8

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Saturday

To reinforce the seam between the existing fiberglass and the hull, my next step was to install 6″ biaxial tabbing across the joint, holding the bottom edge just barely above the turn of the bilge, which meant the new tabbing overlapped the seam and up onto the hull above by 2-3″.  I set the biax in epoxy resin, and worked along both sides and the transom using pieces about two feet in length for ease of installation; there was no need in this application for the tabbing to be continuous, nor to worry about the butted seams, since the point of this new work was only to further secure the original fiberglass beneath.

Again with this project, and despite certainly knowing how I could and (probably) should do it better, I knowingly accepted some shortfalls in preparation, applying the tabbing in some areas over some of the original paint (though the paint had been thoroughly sanded with coarse paper), since I felt this was more than adequate given the proposed use and anticipated lifespan of this basic and tired old skiff.

Total time on this job today:  1 hour

Scupper 60

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Wednesday

The fine fairing compound had cured overnight, and now I sanded it smooth with 220 grit, removing the excess.  A few of the tight corners in the cockpit, including the locker lid gutters and other select areas, would require some additional hand-sanding work in the near future, as during this session I avoided getting bogged down with detail-oriented hand work in favor of the broad strokes of the bulk of the deck surface.

Total time billed on this job today:  4 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  64°, cloudy.  Forecast for the day:  Clouds, rain and possible thunderstorms developing, 70s

Scupper 59

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Tuesday

I began the day by vacuuming thoroughly the entire boat, deck and hull, to remove excess sanding dust from the previous days’ efforts.  Afterwards, I solvent-washed the deck areas to clean them and prepare for the next step.  I’d eventually do the same to the hull, but only once I’d finished the decks.

The next step was to apply a fine epoxy fairing compound to portions of the deck as needed to fill various and sundry pinholes, small voids and any other areas requiring extra attention as highlighted by the high-build primer.    Because of the extensive nature of the deck repairs and related sanding, there were widespread pinholes to deal with, as anticipated and expected following the primer application, and in both areas of new work and the original surfaces, where sanding had exposed the natural small air pockets in and just beneath the gelcoat, and also a few areas requiring a bit of fine-tuning, such as the fillet around the forward hatch frame and some gelcoat voids in the companionway rails.

Total time billed on this job today:  4 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  48°, clear with low fog.  Forecast for the day:  Sunny, 75°

Scupper 58

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Monday

Continuing on the hull, I worked during the morning to sand the starboard side with 220 grit, smoothing the fresh primer.

After resetting the staging so I could reach the decks again, I finished up the work on deck, sanding the foredeck, sidedecks, poop deck, and cabin trunk/outer coamings as needed to smooth the primer.

Total time billed on this job today:  7 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  50°, clear.  Forecast for the day:  Sunny, 75°

Scupper 57

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Saturday

I got started sanding the high build in the cockpit, sanding all surfaces with 220 grit:  cockpit well, seats, bridgedeck, coamings.

Afterwards, I moved on to the coachroof, as well as a small portion of the foredeck and forward end of the cabin trunk near the centerline where I knew I’d not be able to easily reach later from the staging.

I’d sand the sidedecks and cabin trunk later, but for now, with the staging still set up at hull height, I turned to the hull, starting with the counter on both sides (reaching up as high as I could from the ground) and the transom, then continuing forward along the port side till I reached the stem, where I called it good for the day.  I sanded the fresh primer smooth with 220 grit on a vibrating finish sander and by hand as needed.

Total time billed on this job today:  6.25 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  71°, clouds and fog, humid.  Forecast for the day:  Cloudy, showers, fog, a thunderstorm, 73°

Scupper 56

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Friday

High build primer is essentially a surfacing primer, and as such represents one of the last most important steps in the hull and deck repair work and surface preparation.  This primer helps to even out the various textures left behind during the previous work–original gelcoat, new fiberglass cloth, and fairing compounds–and serves to highlight pinholes and areas requiring additional fine filling, all of which are an inevitable part of the overall process.

The primer is also an important psychological step, as it signals new beginnings and fresh hope, and marks a significant change of appearance of and direction in the project.  On a large, long-term project like Scupper, I like to do the high build earlier in the process and at the end of repair work, a true dividing line between structural work and finish work, and this also gives me the opportunity to approach the final fine filling and detail sanding at a more leisurely pace while continuing work on other areas of the build.  Finish primer and paint would come substantially later in the process.

After final preparations, I began the high build application with the most central portions of the deck:  the cockpit well, bridgedeck, and coachroof.  I trod upon the masking paper I’d set up previously to avoid stepping on the clean, prepped deck.  I applied three sprayed coats of Alexseal epoxy high-build primer to these areas, then removed the paper and applied three coats of the primer to the remaining deck areas, including the cockpit seats, coamings, remainder of the coachroof, foredeck, cabin sides, and sidedecks.

With three coats on all deck areas, I moved the staging planks down to the lower height required for hull access, and sprayed three coats of the primer on the hull as well, completing the day’s work and transforming the appearance of the boat.

Total time billed on this job today:  8 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  48°, clear.  Forecast for the day:  Sunny with increasing clouds, chance of a thunderstorm later, 74°

Scupper 55

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Thursday

I spent the morning working on the final details of pre-primer prep, including setting up spray gun equipment, pre-stirring the always-settled paint cans, final deck and hull preparations including tack-off, and other related tasks.

Next:  high build primer.

Total time billed on this job today:  2.5 hours

0600 Weather Observation:  Mostly cloudy and low fog, 68°.  Forecast for the day:  Partly sunny, 82°

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