With a new arsenal of cutting wheels and blades on hand, it was do or die time for the mast step.  I started with fresh cutoff wheels and cutting through the aluminum at the forward and after ends of the step, where it curved down into the bilge.  Cutting the old aluminum was much more difficult than one would expect (never mind the access), and ate through the discs quickly.

The longitudinal portion of the step that I could access from the relatively open starboard side was too deeply inset in the V between the top plate of the step and the hull for my grinder wheel to fit, so with a tough demolition blade in a reciprocating saw I made a cut here from forward to aft.  The step had seemed to well-adhered that there seemed no option but to do this cut at a minimum; on the port side, there wasn’t really any usable access for tools so after making the starboard cut I decided to see if I could get at least part of the assembly to move or break out before continuing.

I tried a big pry bar in the slotted cuts I’d made, first at the “easy” aft end, then at the forward end.  Of course there was no perfect angle or access available for the bar, but with some fiddling I got it to work.  At first, it seemed like I’d made no progress despite these fatal cuts.  This was discouraging.

But then, suddenly, the step was loose at the forward end, and after some minor jostling to clear the bulkhead and cabinetry partially overhanging it to port, it was out and clear.  Interestingly, despite the cuts I’d made in the aluminum, the entire remains of the step came out in one piece.  The only thing that had actually been holding it in place before I began the day’s efforts had been a mass of pour foam that filled the hollow center of the step and the entire area to the bilge; this foam came out in a more or less solid mass along with the step.

I didn’t care so much about the mechanics of it:  I was just happy to have it out, having far passed the point of no return with the structure and, given the challenges in removal, I’d been growing increasingly worried about what I’d have to actually do to get it out, as I was nearing the limits of what I could do with the tools and access available.

But the worry was moot now, and I cleaned up the worst of the debris from the boat and inspected the step assembly down on the bench just as a point of interest.  Of course the foam was saturated, but it appeared that my starboard saw cut had actually been the key to removal, as this fresh cut through the foam was clearly visible and must have released whatever adhesion the foam had with the hull just enough for me to start to pry the assembly out.  There seemed to be no other sort of adhesive involved in the initial installation of the step:  It appeared to have been plunked down into the mass of pour foam, then tabbed fore and aft and over the additional foam poured into the side cavities.

The aluminum was heavily corroded all over, but still quite substantial.    Without any intervention, this imperfect yet originally very strong structure probably would have continued its job for years to come, though clearly it was far from ideal.  It was out of the boat now and that was all that mattered, and now it was time to move forward.

There was no better time than present to get going with cleaning up the hull in way of the old step, so I cut tabbing remains and ground the area as clean and smooth as I could to allow for new work, then thoroughly cleaned up so I could work in safety and comfort.

The small section of the main bulkhead where the old step had been was in the way, had some damage at its lower corner, and already had some large holes left over from (presumably) the original engine installation, which had once been on centerline just aft of the bulkhead.  To provide better access for the new step construction, I decided to remove this small piece even with the lower edge of the head cabinetry on the forward side.  I made level and plumb cut lines as needed and cut out the section, then cleaned up the remnants of tabbing as needed.  Later, I’d patch this back in over the new step and retab the area as needed.

For the moment, I decided to continue on the mast step, which at least immediately would be easier while I still had nearby flat surfaces to store tools and equipment (soon the settees and other structures would be removed).  My idea for the new step was to create a massive block of G-10 fiberglass to span the area, well-tabbed in to all surrounding areas, and provide more than substantial support for the spar compressive forces, while leaving a sizeable limber beneath to allow free passage of bilge water, something that had been impossible with the old step, and which the owner had specifically complained of.  After various considerations and inquiries into the material available, I decided that a 4-1/2″ thick block, made from three laminated layers of 1-1/2″ G-10, would provide a good starting point.

The most critical datum for the new step was its final height when all was said and done.  The original step top plate (seen in the first two photos below) had been 68-1/4″ down from an easily-replicated reference point in the mast collar above, and that is where the final surface of the new step would also need to be.  To help me get set up at this crucial height for mockup purposes, I prepared a simple stick and bottom plate from scrap wood so there’d be an easy physical representation of the measurement to work from.  I allowed an extra 1/4″ of space because it would be easier to make up extra height than to end up too high, so I made my mockup stick 68-1/2″ to the bottom side of the bottom plate.  I tacked the stick in place with hot glue to give me a reference point in mid air.

To begin a mockup and also help with later shaping of the final product, I cut a piece of 1-1/2″ styrofoam to 12″ x 24″ to match the fiberglass sheet and fit the space at hand.   With some shaping, I fit the foam in place beneath the mockup stick and leveled it in both directions.  After various minor manipulations and adjustments, I had this where I wanted it.  I aligned the aft edge of the platform with where the original aft edge of the step had been, according to my pattern as shown in the final photos.  Of course this so far was only a rough beginning and simulation of the final product, but for the moment it confirmed the position and gave me additional information and insight I’d need to continue.  The top surface of my new platform was 68-1/2″ down from the mast collar, as desired.  (Upon reflection I thought might take this down just a bit more to allow for the construction I had in mind and to provide plenty of room for final fiberglass layers over the top.)

For now, the day was over, but I’d continue work on the mockup next time to give a sense of the final structure I had in mind.  Till then, bear with me.

With only a short morning available because of other commitments, and since I was waiting for my delivery of destructo-tools to help me finish off the mast step, I chose to focus on some basic housekeeping chores, for lack of a better term.

The existing companionway ladder, which was attached to the front panel of the engine room, was steep and uncomfortable to descend, and in any event the engine room and surrounding area would soon be removed to make way for new construction.  So now I removed the front panel and existing ladder, and replaced it with a repurposed construction ladder I’d used on many projects before.  I had to make a few modifications at the top end for the rough ladder to fit the space, so it would hang over and catch the companionway sill.   The new ladder showcased excellent joinery techniques and Chippendale-like cosmetic appeal, but would function for what it needed to do.  The whole thing could easily be lifted out of the way when access was needed behind.

To protect the engine against dust and debris during the cabin removal ahead, I covered it with plastic sheeting.

With demolition of the main cabin berths and other areas to happen sometime soon once I got the mast step burden out of the way, I began to remove some of the electrical and plumbing systems located within, starting with the starboard side, where without too much trouble I could pull out two long lengths of battery cable that had led between the port and starboard battery banks.    I’d intended to continue with the plumbing leftover from the bladder tank, but received an email from the owner requesting some information and input on the new galley setup, specifically some sink options under consideration, so I took what little remained in my day to make some measurements and rough mockups and send along the information.   The masking tape lines represent the overall sizes of the mounting flanges for two separate sinks.

Some quick background.  Because of the owner’s requirements for the interior, including maintaining two full-length sea berths in the main cabin, reconfiguring the galley to include a gimballed stove and oven requires maintaining the existing forward bulkhead; as a result, the space available for a stove is rather narrow, too narrow, in fact, for typical 22″ wide stoves.  The owner found a European stove that required only 19″, which width actually works in this setup, and a side benefit to this stove is that it (and the sinks under consideration) are designed around a variety of interchangeable stainless steel catering-type trays, which can transfer directly between stove and sink and so forth.  The PDF brochure reproduced here covers these features in greater detail.

I started by making a mark for the actual waterline inside the boat; to do this easily, I measured the height above waterline of a drain through hull from outside the boat, then transferred this measurement to the hull inside the boat (9″).  Then, I measured up to the underside of the existing countertop (12″ above).  This way, whatever sink ended up being chosen, we could know for sure whether its bowl would remain high and dry at rest, at least.  The existing bowl was about 7″ deep beneath the counter, as were the replacements, so this allowed a few inches of clearance and also for the possibility of lowering the countertop, which was under consideration to increase overhead clearance between it and the bridgedeck.

In any event, with measurements made and discussions under way, that brought to a close the work for the moment.

 

I continued work to remove the mast step structure, now on the port side.  I could pry up the fiberglass covering the foam-filled space between the webs, but it was still solid at the aft end, where access was poor.  I used a multi-tool to cut the tabbing back there, after which I could pull up the fiberglass to expose and remove the foam and such, which I cleaned out to the best of my ability given the awkward and backwards access.

Afterwards, I spent some time with cutoff wheel and multi tool to trim down the tabbing wherever I could to expose as much of the aluminum framework as possible, hopefully to allow for relatively easy removal.

I made a pattern to help me relocate the bolt holes for the mast step plate later, using some of the nearby structures as a guide and for measurements.  I made various marks on the pattern that, along with numerous photos I took for my records, would assist in recreating the position later.  These photos are just some of the ones I recorded.

I didn’t have enough cutoff discs or other demo tools on hand, necessarily, to allow for full removal of the structure (more on the way), but I thought I’d try and see if maybe I’d get lucky and the whole thing would pop out.  I managed to fairly easily break off the four transverse webs near the center mass, using a short mallet.  But alas, the center portion remained well adhered for now, and without fresh, new cutting wheels, I quickly found that attempting to cut the aluminum was a fool’s errand for now, as the two old ones I had (and had used for the fiberglass removal so far) were worn down enough as to be ineffective and wouldn’t cut deeply enough either.  Attempts to pry or otherwise persuade the structure out also failed for now.  So final removal would await another day soon.

Instead, I turned to the chainplates, which the owner wanted replaced with new.  There were four stainless steel chainplates installed, with generally good access.  To begin, I removed the deck plates covering the slots–a pair on each side.

Next, I unbolted the chainplates from below, which went fairly well though there was some corrosion on the threads and nuts.  I had one bolt on the final chainplate (port mid) that wouldn’t budge, so I used my electric impact gun to finally coax it free.  Each chainplate also had a thinner backing plate, and some wooden spacers of unknown and questionable value to the overall installation.   The chainplate knees were solid fiberglass, about 1/2″ thick and tabbed to the hull.  Later, when I got to the surface preparation in the cabin, I’d inspect these for condition, but there were no immediate issues to be found at first glance.

In order below:  starboard aft; port aft; starboard mid; port mid.

 

Following a productive meeting with the owner at the boat on Saturday, I now had more clear direction on the project scope, and was ready to get to work.

To begin, I addressed some questions the owner had had after our meeting, starting with some investigative measurements with the forward lower chainplates.  There were knees installed belowdecks, but forward lowers had never been installed to the best of the owner’s knowledge, and he hoped to replace an existing babystay with forward lowers during this refit.  The spar maker required a minimum distance of 15.75″ (400mm) forward of the mast (whether forward edge of the mast or mast centerline was not determined) for these to be effective.  The way the knees were situated didn’t allow me to easily make this measurement from belowdecks, so I transferred the knees’ positions to the deck and, with a string led between the marks across the deck, made the necessary measurement.  I used the forward edge of the mast collar as my reference, as if the minimum measurement was satisfied there, at the forwardmost point, it would surely be acceptable by any standard.  With over 16″ available from these criteria, the forward chainplates appeared to be properly positioned as needed (aad also the same distance forward of the center chainplates as the after ones were aft, which is typical).

Next, the owner sent me some specifications on an electric portable refrigerator he hoped to use in the refurbished galley, with the idea of placing it under what was currently the nav station desk.  To that end, I measured the space to confirm that the dimensions would work:  they would, with some relatively minor relocation of some of the electrical components currently installed in the space.

The owner had concerns about the existing mast step for the keel-stepped spar.  This was some sort of aluminum fabrication, the details of which were unknown, but portions were visible on either end of the space, and the aluminum showed signs of ongoing corrosion and deterioration.  At first glance, the step appeared to be a solid and massive mass of aluminum, which seemed unlikely, but in any event the owner was keen to rebuilt the structure.  The nearby cabin sole was well-rotted and I pulled away some large sections by hand to provide better access to the step area for these photos (later I removed the rest of the sole from the head to expose all of the area in question).  I documented the existing condition of the step and its installation before beginning any demolition or investigative work.

Next, I measured and documented the position of the step in various ways, including its height (measured from a known criterion at the mast collar) and longitudinal and transverse positions.  The distance from the deck to the top of the step structure, as well as the mast base fitting itself, were critical for proper reconstruction later.    I used a straightedge to transfer some of the measurements to nearby structural members for later reference and easier re-creation.  Then, I dismantled some of the nearby woodwork–specifically the outboard side of a wooden mast enclosure and a replacement panel on the aft edge of the bulkhead–to clear the way for some of the work ahead.  Sometime later, I’d make a template of the area, specifically to help relocate the mast base hardware.

The slotted hardware that accepted the base of the mast, when stepped, was secured to the aluminum step structure with four machine screws that I removed without any trouble.

Before going much further, I paused to bail out some water that remained in the bilge on either side of the step, and also to remove the cabin heater for safekeeping and to remove it from what would soon become a dusty environment.

I didn’t know what I was going to find next, but I started working around the exposed part of the aluminum step to probe the nearby fiberglass and see if I could figure out the edges and limits of what, at this point, still appeared to be one huge solid block on the centerline.  Since most of the step was exposed towards the starboard side, I started there and soon defined a clear, straight edge, from which I could pry up the nearby fiberglass (to starboard) with several prying-type tools.  By now, I’d managed to determine that beneath this tabbing, there was softer material, at least between the forward and after edges, and it was starting to look like the structure featured two vertical webs (spanning the width of the hull fore and aft) incorporating the center, main, part of the step.  The tabbing, despite being loose, was too thick for me to pry up by hand, so I got myself set up with breathing supply, tools, and other protective gear and cut away the fiberglass with an angle grinder and cutoff wheel.  This exposed the starboard side of the structure and revealed expanding foam filling the void between the transverse webs of the step.  The foam was intact, but wet.

Now I spent the remainder of the day digging out the foam and making some additional cuts in the tabbing here and there, now that the nature of the structure was more clear.  With the foam removed, the “solid” center mass of the step became a 1/2″ or 3/4″ horizontal top plate with a vertical web beneath, running to the hull along the centerline, all interconnected with the hull-shaped transverse webs on either end, roughly 12″ apart.  The aluminum, despite its appearance and some obvious deterioration, was sound to the extent possible to determine.  By the end of the day, I’d cleaned up the starboard side pretty well, including cutting some of the tabbing on each end that once secured the web, and had made some cuts on the port side (where the structure passed beneath the main bulkhead and into the head), but dismantling that portion would wait till next time.

 

 

Continuing my interior documentation process, I measured, diagrammed, and photographed in detail various interior components so as to have a baseline for back reference and use during new construction as needed.  Even though I didn’t expect the new installations to replicate the existing, having this information available would come in handy throughout the process.  I noted all the measurement details in some drawings, but these documents are not fit for eyes beyond my own.

I began with the settees and storage lockers above:

Next, I measured and photo-documented the galley, engine area, and nav station, a section of the boat slated for the most significant changes.  I also took this opportunity to remove the existing refrigerator, which was slated for replacement in the new plan and straightforward enough to remove with only four screws holding it in place.

During this process I discovered that the inside of the nav station was easily removed, so I took that apart not only for better early access, but because it would all end up being removed soon anyway.  I also removed some adjacent panels from the engine room.

I measured the existing waste tank beneath the forward berth (unlikely to change, but possibly helpful in determining a size for a new water tank on the opposite side), and also made some rough measurements on the starboard side for the same purpose.  I noted all these measurements for later use.

Finally, I noted some details of the propane cabin heater, which I’d likely remove temporarily for the construction to come.  For now, I left it in place, other than removing the propane hose, which would be in the way of settee removal later.

I spent the day picking away at removing whatever I could and preparing for the more significant work ahead.  In the main cabin, I removed stereo and speakers, light fixtures, documentation plaque, and magazine rack, along with numerous small eye straps and related hardware attached to the various bulkheads.

I removed the water tank–a flexible bladder under the starboard settee–and took it outside to drain the few gallons of water still inside.  I left the plumbing for now pending final decisions on the galley and elsewhere.

For better access and to allow the modifications required, I removed the v-berth platform, which was secured only with some trim pieces at the aft end, pinching two large panels in place and preventing removal.  Once I removed the trim and a couple support clamps for some of the wiring and plumbing beneath the platform, I could remove both sections of the berth, exposing the support structure, hull, and systems installations beneath.

Using a level, I transferred the general position of the through-hull propane locker vent on the starboard side to the inside of the cockpit locker opening, where I could get a measurement that I could easily transfer to the port side for planning purposes.  The vent was 13.5″ down from the edge of the locker, so I transferred that mark across the cockpit to the port side and made a note for later reference.  While the vent could technically be located closer to the waterline, for practical purposes it’s about as low as one would want, so this would drive the potential new locker design and tank availability.  There was ample space in the quarterberth below the port cockpit molding (no locker opening in this side).

Given the ideal depth constraints, a horizontal propane tank seemed to be the choice that would fit.  The specifications for a 20# horizontal tank showed it to be 13″ tall, which would fit in a potential locker on the port side given the drain position constraints.  To show the overall dimensions of the tank (21″ length and 12″width), I made a mark with tape on the top of the port side; the inside edge of the tape represents the overall opening size required for the tank to fit in from straight above.  So in theory, a locker designed with propane in mind would work in the space.  I briefly looked at the possibility of using an aluminum hatch to create the opening and streamline construction, but the dimensions didn’t work, either too small for the tank to fit through, or too large to fit the available space.  There were other possibilities and as the owner and I finalized the ideas the plan would come together in the near future.

I took the opportunity to remove the existing galley stove, which was not secured to the countertop at all and therefore easy to remove once I’d unscrewed the flexible propane hose.  I documented the wiring for the propane solenoid switch and alarm behind the galley panel while access was good.

The existing wiring and various panels had recently been redone by the owner, and the plan was to keep as much of this intact as possible, whatever the course of the interior project ended up being.  To this end, I removed some cover panels from the forward end of the cockpit and nearby, and opened up the electrical locker outboard of the navigation station.  I had from the owner a wiring list and schematic, and for now documented as much of the wiring as possible for future use should any minor reconfiguration be necessary.

For now, though, I decided to remove the batteries from their current locations under the port and starboard settees, as they’d have to come out at some point.   The batteries were installed in two parallel banks. I labeled all the relevant wires as I disconnected the batteries.

The owner hoped to reposition the batteries in a new locker just aft of the main bulkhead and mast step.  There were a couple interior panels that hid the mast when it was installed, so in theory the new cabinet could extend out as far as the mast step.  For now, while the batteries were here, I arranged them roughly in a few different possible configurations to get a sense of the space they would require.

 

After spending some undocumented time going over project plans and the general approach ahead, I got started by checking the boat for level in both directions.  The owner had made a longitudinal level mark when he had the boat at anchor, using a laser level to make some marks on one of the settees in the main cabin.  I used this to check the fore and aft position of the boat now, and found that the boat as blocked was level in this direction.

The owner had mentioned that the settees and the forward berth (especially the forward berth) were not properly positioned, with the head (aft) end of the v-berth lower than the forward end.  I confirmed this with the level and checked the settees as well.  The forward berth was several inches too low at the aft end.

Next, I used a long beam across the cockpit coamings to check the athwartship position of the boat–slightly off level–and adjusted the stands till the position was correct.

I documented the “as is” condition of the interior before going further.

The owner and I had a meeting scheduled at the boat coming up in a few days, during which we’d work out the final project scope and details, but for now I focused on dismantling what I could, and doing some advance planning and thinking on some of the items on the list.  One of these was the galley stove and propane system, and to start I first located the existing propane locker, which was a prefab plastic box installed in the the starboard cockpit locker.  As installed, this satisfied applicable requirements, but the owner wanted to consider building a dedicated locker on the port side (above the existing quarterberth), to hold a larger tank and perhaps be more convenient.  For now, I documented the existing installation and would investigate the possibilities on the port side more going forward.  The main constraint on the new locker construction would be the depth of the locker required, and keeping it high enough so the locker vent (which exits the bottom of a propane locker) would end up in a practicable location above the waterline, i.e. essentially no lower than the existing vent on the starboard side.  More on this to come as things develop.

Meanwhile, I removed what I safely could in the main cabin, including a sliding portion of the port berth, hinged backrests on each side, canvas lee cloths, and the various prefab locker doors above the settees and in the galley, which were secured from the surface with screws and removable as is in complete units.

I continued the work to empty out the boat, beginning now with the interior cushions from all areas, which I stored beneath the port side of the boat for now.

Meanwhile, I emptied out the galley lockers and drawers, storing the items temporarily in bins, and worked my way through the rest of the boat, including the navigation station, quarter berth (which was chock full of gear), hanging locker, and head areas.  I loaded everything into bins, where applicable, or stored things loosely in the large pile beneath the starboard side of the boat, or on some additional shelves behind the boat.

Storing the large amount of gear from the boat in the shop itself would work this time around since all the projects were inside the cabin, but even so, dust would be a problem, so for protection I wrapped both storage piles with plastic.

With all storage areas emptied out, I documented the existing condition of the interior and lockers before diving into the project.

 

The first order of business with any new project is to document the “as-arrived” condition, so, as one is wont to do, I did this first.  This project would focus entirely on the interior, but nevertheless I documented the hull and deck areas for posterity.

By previous agreement, the owner had left most of the gear on board, and one of my first tasks would be to empty out the boat.  To prepare for the numerous trips in and out and up and down, I covered the cockpit seats, bridgedeck, and sole, as well as the side of the hull in way of the ladder, with protective plastic that would stay on for the duration.

As much for my own purposes as any other, I documented the interior as-arrived with all the gear still in place.

To make room to work, I removed the spinnaker pole and boom, securing them across the bow pulpit out of the way.

From there, I began to work my way through the interior to clean things out, beginning with the larger items like sails, lines, fenders, pieces of the keel-stepped mast surround that had been removed, and whatever else was in the main and forward cabins.

Continuing, I transferred the contents of the starboard upper cabinets in the saloon, then the port side, to a pair of plastic bins for storage during the project, bringing me to the end of the time I had available at the moment.