Friday
Taking advantage of about the best outdoor conditions I could hope for in the near future, I moved Jasmine outdoors to open up the shop for a new project.
Total time billed on this job today: 1 hour
0600 Weather Observation: 30°, mostly clear. Forecast for the day: Sunny and windy, high around 34°
Friday
Just over a week earlier, after several weeks of above-normal temperatures and no snowstorms, the ground around Scupper’s storage area had been bare and easily accessible. Alas, two hefty snowstorms over a period of only 5 days changed that, and just a few days before I was planning on shuffling boats and moving her indoors.
After both snowstorms, I shoveled out around the jackstands to keep them from freezing into the ground or ice, and after the second (larger) storm on March 13, I took advantage of warm-ish post-storm temperatures to move the rest of the snow from around the boat, cleaning out an area with abundant room for my trailer.
Now, after another day’s wait while I attended to another project and gave the area a bit of melting time, I had as good a chance, weatherwise, as I was likely to get in the foreseeable future to move the boat indoors: sun and temperatures on either side of freezing, with the ground firm after overnight. So after I moved out the project I just completed, I picked up Scupper on the trailer and moved her in. I didn’t bother removing the tarp, as I just wanted to get the move completed, but with some gusty winds I did take the precaution of cutting off what I could to prevent it from possibly becoming a sail in a wind gust.
The move was uneventful and I was grateful to have her safely indoors, where she could thaw and melt off and I could get to work in the near future.
Total time billed on this job today: 1 hour
0600 Weather Observation: 30°, partly clear. Forecast for the day: Sunny and windy, high around 34°
Friday
In addition to the support trim for the table top when installed in the down position, I needed a few pieces of fiddle trim to replace the original trim. The new trim would be removable for when the dinette was converted to a full-size berth, but would still be needed at other times to hold the cushions in place. I milled up the pieces I needed, referring to my measurements for lengths. I also prepared two long pieces of simple 1/4″ wide trim that I would use to cover the plywood end grain in the dinette opening once the main trim was installed. I edge-milled as needed and sanded all the trim pieces smooth through 220 grit.
The table top blank required a few additional milling steps. I planned to install one fiddle at the outer edge, needed to hold the filler cushion in place when in use, but the owner thought it’d be best to leave the remaining three edges un-fiddled. However, we did elect to mill some little recesses to hold pens and the like, so now I set things up to mill these with my router and a sign-making bit I had that would make the appropriate profile.
After determining where I wanted the grooves, and measuring the router and bit as needed, I clamped on a straightedge at an offset (in this case it was 3-3/4″ from the edge of the table) against which to hold the router and mill the grooves in a straight line. Then I routed the details on the three sides of the top.
Afterwards, I milled 1/4″ roundover details on the four bottom edges of the table top and on the top outer edge, where I planned the fiddle. For the inner three top edges I switched to a 1/2″ roundover bit for a smoother profile. Once I’d routed all the edges, I sanded the whole tabletop to 220 grit.
Finally, after solvent-washing, I applied a sealer coat of varnish to all sides of all the new trim and table top. I’d continue building up the varnish over the next few days before switching to rubbed-effect varnish for the final coat to match the existing interior finish.
Total time billed on this job today: 2.25 hours
0600 Weather Observation: 30°, partly clear. Forecast for the day: Sun and clouds, windy, around 34°
Thursday
Back in January, I visited Lively Heels in the owner’s storage building so I could discuss with him the addition of a dinette table and possible conversion to a full-size berth. The existing space had been constructed to allow for a table with a 3-sided dinette seating area, but the table had never been installed.
The outcome of our discussion at the time was that a basic pedestal table, sized to fit the footwell opening in the existing dinette, was the best option for the space and for the owner’s needs. At the time, I took some basic measurements of the space and noted the details, and later, back at the shop, I spent a few hours preparing and dimensioning some raw cherry stock to glue up a blank for the new table top, along with some pieces sized for the trim I thought I’d need.
The table was to be removable and serve double duty as the platform for a berth filler cushion that would make the dinette into a larger lounging or sleeping area. Standard table pedestals have traditionally left much to be desired in terms of strength, looks, and durability, so finding a decent yet simple pedestal for this application was an important task. Complicating the installation in this specific case was the fact that the center of the existing dinette footwell, where a pedestal foot might be located, was directly over some beams that supported the cabin sole (I knew this because I built the interior originally some years earlier), and this obviated the use of any sort of flush or insert-type pedestal base.
After some searching, I found a pedestal that featured an aluminum leg that fit into a neat-looking nearly flush surface-mount base. Intrigued, I ordered the pedestal so I could inspect it firsthand. The base itself, made of stainless steel, was very low profile–a plus for this space since we didn’t want a bulky pedestal base in there–and had what turned out to be a highly effective means of securing the table leg tightly. The top of the assembly was a plastic piece that would be secured to the table, and fit over a tapered section of the leg for a tight friction fit.
Later, after various scheduling and weather-related delays, I returned to the boat to prepare the space for the new work. My task this day was to remove the existing fiddles from around the space, which would reveal the true size and shape of the opening that I needed to fill, and allow me to determine the various new trim profiles I needed to make up.
The existing cherry trim was mitered at the outside corners, so to make a clean end for the side trim that would remain in place, I cut through the trim just outside of the dinette area and existing miter cut.
Next, I drilled out the bungs hiding the fasteners securing the fiddles in place, and removed the screws. The fiddles were also glued in place, but with some care I was able to remove the pieces with minimal damage, so hopefully I could repurpose some of the hardwood later.
During the original construction, I’d installed a hardwood cleat beneath the plywood settee overhang to support the fiddles. This was secured with glue and more screws. The screw heads on the settee were filled with paint, so I chiseled out the cleats from beneath and then used locking pliers to unwind the screws enough till I could grab and remove them from above. This left me with just the overhanging plywood settee top, which is what I wanted and would provide the clean start for the new trim. At this stage, I also sanded clean and rounded the edges of the remaining fiddles at the sides of the dinette, and applied a coat of varnish over the raw wood.
I made various detailed measurements of the opening for my future reference in building the new trim. The trim would have to support the table top flush with the settee when lowered to the berth position, and also needed to cover the now-exposed plywood settee edge. I planned to run the trim back beneath the existing overhang to give it plenty of strength, but I hadn’t worked out all the details of how I’d mill it just yet. To give myself an accurate template of the exact opening, I laid the table blank across and traced the outline on the bottom side–the easiest way I could come up with to document the real space.
For visualization purposes and to ensure the table leg was the desired height, I set up the leg and table top, giving a sense of how it would work later, even though the table was still an oversized and incomplete blank at this point.
Back at the shop later in the afternoon, I got to work on the details. For the main support trim, I planned to use some 3″ wide cherry that I’d milled and sanded to a rounded profile on one edge. Allowing for a 3/4″ flat to support the table, plus 1/4″ vertical trim that would eventually hide the plywood edge on the settee, this would give me 2″ of wood to extend beneath the overhang for support; I could glue and bolt it in place for high strength. Using the measurements I’d taken earlier, along with the table template, I prepared three sections of this trim that would fit within the existing opening. I left the side pieces a bit shorter than the actual opening so they wouldn’t project too far and run into some existing cleats, and beveled the outer edge so there wouldn’t be a sharp corner to catch clothing or legs or whatnot.
To lower the bearing surface enough so that the 7/8″ thick table top would fit flush when lowered to berth height, I added a plywood strip which, along with the 12mm thickness of the settee, would lower the installation accordingly. The plywood would not be seen in the final installation, and I secured it to the cherry with glue and brads.
Allowing for the additional edge trim, and some space for a realistic fit, I cut down the table blank to its final size, bringing work for the day to a close.
Total time billed on this job today: 3.75 hours (plus 4 additional hours to date for the preliminary boat visit and stock dimensioning time in January and February)
0600 Weather Observation: 26°, snow shower. Forecast for the day: Becoming mainly sunny, low 30s
Tuesday
Earlier, I’d ordered and picked up the new, simple lettering for the owner’s name and hailport, and now I installed it on the quarters and transom as requested.
To accommodate the stainless steel rigging straps that wrapped above the masthead and impacted the location for the new tricolor/anchor light fixture, I made up a little platform from fiberglass, dadoing out the base to fit over one of the straps. To secure the base in place, I removed one of the hex bolts securing a strap at the after end of the mast, and prepared a hole in the fiberglass base through which I could install a replacement screw. Later, I painted the little base, leaving all ready for installation at my next opportunity.
The return of winter weather, after rather a hiatus during February, came during an inconvenient time for me, just as I wrapped up this job and was hoping to move boats around and load my next project into the shop, but no one asked me first. I’d seriously considered making the moves yesterday, before the onset of a large snowstorm, but ultimately decided to wait till after the snow. But in any event, my work on Jasmine was essentially complete, other than a few minor tasks related to the mast, and to prepare for any opening in the next several days when I could possibly make some boat moves, I dismantled the staging and cleaned up the boat, removed protective towels and electric cords and lighting, and closed her up to await a yard move as soon as I could.
Total time billed on this job today: 2.75 hours
0600 Weather Observation: 31°, cloudy. Forecast for the day: Snow beginning later and becoming heavy in the afternoon and overnight, 12-24″ forecast
Monday
The owner requested spreader lights, and I found some nice little aluminum-housed LED lights that would do the job well. With the spreaders on hand in the shop, I began with the basic installation and spreader-side wiring.
The lights featured a small stainless steel bracket that allowed light rotation up to 90°, which is where I needed it for this installation so that the lights would face directly down to the deck below. After determining the position for the light and its bracket, I installed the bracket with a single machine screw into a threaded hole in the bottom side of the spreader; the bracket was designed for a carriage bolt, but that type of fastener wouldn’t work in this blind installation. The two lights, ordered at the same time from the same vendor and while essentially identical, apparently were different “model years” and had slightly different wiring harnesses, one with a shorter black wire with a factory plug. This did not impact much for this installation and had no practical ramifications when all was said and done.
With the lights secured in their brackets, I completed the wiring that would lead to the mast for eventual connection. Since the spreaders might be removed in the future, I planned for plug-in connectors for the wiring. The white wire lead on one of the lights was pretty much the right length as it was, but the black wire on the other side was shorter, so I began by extending the wires to the same length as the other side. I added water-resistant plugs at the ends of the wires–male for one wire, female for the other, so that the mast side wiring couldn’t be accidentally reversed–then secured the wires to the spreaders with wire clamps and flexible conduit for looks and protection.
I made up a quick test lead connector and checked the lights’ operation with a battery. I was impressed by the light produced.
This photo shows the light bloom on the shop ceiling, about 15′ above the light itself.
With the sealant securing the chainplate covers now cured, I removed the excess and cleaned up as necessary.
I completed the electrical panel by installing a few final panel labels that I’d had to order.
Taking advantage of another decent day outside, I picked up where I left off with the mast and, using the messengers I installed earlier, ran in the wires for the light at the masthead, spreader lights, and the steaming light, along with the VHF antenna. At the spreaders, I led a short wire pair across from one side of the mast to the other so I could wire both sides of the spreader lights.
At the masthead, I wired up the connector for the new tricolor/anchor light. The light came pre-wired with a short harness and a waterproof (according to the light’s literature) connector, so for the moment I just connected the other side of the connector to the new mast wire. This part of the harness was long enough that I could make the wiring connections inside the mast and just run the small harness out through a pre-existing hole in the side of the mast.
I postponed installing the fixture itself on the masthead, which had some stainless steel strops over the top that were in the way of the mounting location. I had a plan for mounting the light and would take care of that soon.
Continuing down the mast, I made up the connections for the spreader light wiring, with the corresponding connector plugs for those I’d installed on the spreaders themselves. I interconnected the wires from both sides of the mast and left short harnesses on each side to allow room for connection of the wires when the spreaders were installed.
Finally, I connected and installed the steaming light, using a small traditional-type fixture that fit on an existing little platform.
At the base of the mast, I led all the wires out through the wire fitting I’d installed, and, leaving ample slack for running into the boat, made up the wire terminal ends for later connection to the terminal block in the head. I tucked the wire ends back into the base of the mast for now to limit exposure.
Total time billed on this job today: 7 hours
0600 Weather Observation: 16°, clear. Forecast for the day: Mainly sunny, increasing cloudiness in the afternoon, around 40°
Friday
With most work on board now complete, I loaded most of the gear back on board.
The riggers asked me to remove and send to them the masthead sheaves, which were to be replaced, so I headed out to the mast where, despite a recent large snowfall, the weather was surprisingly pleasant and benign. The two sheaves and aluminum divider plates were held in place with a single bolt, and the assembly came apart easily. I packaged up the sheaves and shipped them off.
In order to remove the sheaves, I first had to remove the existing all-wire main halyard, which led to an old Barient #3 reel winch that the owner planned to replace. One thing led to another, and while I’d not planned on doing much in the way of mast work till better weather in a few weeks, once I got looking at the winch I decided to try removing it now.
Disaassembly was straightforward. There was a single screw inside the winch handle socket on top of the drum, and after removing this the drum came off with minor prying from beneath, as the surfaces were dry with age. Six machine screws held the base to the raised platform om the mast, and happily these came out without trouble, releasing the winch. This left behind some piles of aluminum-y corrosion, but later I scraped clean the original winch pad and found it to be acceptable for re-use.
The “new” winch, a recycled Lewmar #16 self-tailer that I’d had on hand, fit the winch pad well, and I laid out, drilled and tapped the fastener holes for 1/4=20 machine screws. I lightly coated the base of the winch with Tef-Gel, and coated all the fasteners as well during installation.
The cast mast base was just loose inside the spar, as someone had drilled out the old fasteners sometime, and I found I could slip it right out. As with the other work this day, one thing led to another, and I decided that with the base loose and the sheaves removed from the masthead, it was a perfect opportunity to at least run in some messengers for the new wiring I needed to install.
First, though, I used a drum sander to open up an existing wiring exit hole near the bottom of the mast so it would fit my new fitting. For this mast, since I knew the wiring hole would be accessible from inside the mast, I chose a basic plastic through hull fitting for the other end of the mast wiring conduit. Sometimes I use surface-mount fittings, but here it was easy to install the fitting from inside. I chose plastic for this end because I’d need to modify the fitting to accept the hose leading to the deck fitting, and in any event strength wasn’t an issue here. Since the full length of a through hull with hose nipple would be too long here, I chose this fitting based on the size of the threaded portion, which was a close match to the 1-1/8″ pipe nipple on the deck fitting. By cutting off the hose end of a 1″ plastic through hull, I could (after installation) pare down the threads (overall diameter about 1-3/16″) accordingly to accept the other end of the hose securely. For now, I just installed the fitting. Later, when I had a piece of hose, I’d sand down the threaded portion to fit.
I finished up my bout of mast work for now by running in messenger lines for the masthead lighting and VHF, as well as spreader lights and the steaming light further down the mast. I used a wire snake to pull in the small messengers, and I’d use these messengers later to pull in the wires. I find the small messenger lines to be easier to pull wires through tight mast spaces than the unwieldy metal snake. I was tempted to just run in the wires now too, but decided to wait till another time.
Later, the new anchor roller I’d ordered to fit the owner’s Rocna 20kg anchor arrived, and I went ahead with the installation. The roller, a Kingston KR-2025, was a great fit for the anchor, one of the few designed specifically for this brand and size, and featured a long, deep channel that would protect the bow platform from damage from the anchor shank.
Because of the stem fitting at the end of the platform, the roller couldn’t be absolutely perfectly aligned with the windlass and remain parallel with the platform itself. I used a length of line to determine the most practical lead for the roller, and with just a slight misalignment from the edge of the platform, I was able to provide a lead that would work well for the anchor chain later.
Installation was straightforward with three bolts through the after end of the roller.
I test-fit the anchor in place afterwards. This roller provided two mounting locations for a pin at the aft end: one further aft, designed to go through a shackle or link of chain aft of the anchor itself, and one further forward (shown in use here) that fit perfectly through the eye at the end of the anchor shank to pin it in place. When chain through the windlass, this roller would hold the anchor tightly against the dual rollers at the forward end to prevent movement.
Total time billed on this job today: 5.5 hours
0600 Weather Observation: 30°, partly clear. Forecast for the day: Clouds and sun, light wind, low 30s
Thursday
Just a few jobs remained on my list, and I started with the main mast step, which installation I’d delayed while I built a 1-1/2″ riser to make up for the amount that needed to be removed from the mast base to eliminate a corroded area there. Earlier, I’d used the original mast step to locate and drill holes through the riser; the riser was just a bit larger in diameter than the original step.
Using the new base as a guide, I masked off the deck areas around the base, and drilled pilot holes in the deck for the new lag screws that would secure the step.
Afterwards, I applied sealant heavily to the deck and installed the riser, then applied more sealant to the top of that and installed the mast step and lags, drawing the whole assembly down into plate tightly.
I used excess squeezeout to fill the space around the bolt head recesses, and cleaned up the residue as needed.
To finish off the chainplates, I installed stainless steel deck plates that fit over the slots and provided a harbor for sealant. At each location, I masked around the perimeter of the new plate, then applied sealant heavily around the slots and chainplates before pressing the deck plate into the sealant. I saw no need for fasteners. I left the squeeze out for later cleanup once it had cured.
With work belowdecks complete, I cleaned up the entire cabin and related spaces, then turned to some minor reassembly. Early in the project, to gain access to various hardware I’d removed some cosmetic covers from the forward cabin, along with a shelf and fiddle in the hanging locker, as well as the doors to the hanging locker , and now I reinstalled these items. With tools and supplies gone, the cabin was empty and ready for me to start reloading the gear that had been on board when the boat arrived here.
In the cockpit locker, I’d earlier removed the connection at the aft end of the exhaust hose, which had allowed greatly improved access to the spaces there for hardware and wiring work. Now, with work complete, I reinstalled the hose, securing it with clamps and heavy wire ties as needed to route it along the cockpit locker opening and up along the coaming before turning down to the existing outlet.
Still ahead, I’d finish up a few minor things and load gear back on the boat. In addition, I had a short list of work to do on the mast, including running new wiring and installing light fixtures, and I would take care of that in due course as allowed by the vagaries of late winter and spring weather.
Total time billed on this job today: 6.25 hours
0600 Weather Observation: 29°, heavy snow and windy, about 6″ from overnight. Forecast for the day: Heavy snow during the morning, then tapering off later in the day, around a foot total accumulation expected
Wednesday
The owner had a small solar panel already on board, though when the boat arrived here the panel had just been temporarily wired and had no mounting system. Now, he requested that I install the panel on the stern pulpit using some hardware that he provided. Holding the panel against the port side of the rail, I ensured that it wouldn’t affect the windvane operation or otherwise be in the way, and I made some marks to show roughly where I needed to install brackets on the panel frame.
Down on the bench, I installed the two brackets on the panel frame itself, bolting through the aluminum frame. These brackets would accept the business end of a pair of clamp-on rail mounts and would form the basis for the support of the panel. Because of the way the two hardware parts interfaced, the machine screws supplied with the rail mounts were a bit short, but for now the threads just engaged so I could use these screws in the immediate term for fitting the panel.
I clamped the fittings to the rail and installed the panel, which held it securely enough so that I could prepare an angled support from beneath, which I’d make from 1″ stainless tubing. Using the hardware on hand, I installed a swivel mount for one end to the center of the panel on the aft side, then cut a piece of tubing to run down to a third clamp-on rail mount, which I installed on the nearest vertical stanchion. I cut the tubing so that the panel ended up horizontal; there was some adjustment possible by sliding the lower rail mount one way or the other as needed.
This completed the main panel support, and the panel seemed sturdy and solid, with only a hint of movement between the tubing end fittings on the lower angle support–a function of the hardware itself. To better secure together the panel mounts and upper rail fittings, I replaced the short machine screws with through bolts and secured them tightly.
To run the wire belowdecks and to the panel controller (already installed by the owner the previous year), I installed a through-deck cable fitting, choosing a location near a stanchion and far enough outboard to pass through the solid area of the deck. I secured the wire along the pulpit and stanchions, then through the fitting and forward to the controller, securing it along the way to the wire mounts I’d installed before. I left the excess wire bundled beneath the deck near the deck fitting, so the panel could be dismounted and moved as needed and within the limits of the excess cable available.
The boat’s pair of 6-volt deep cycle batteries was charged and ready, and with the panel in place I decided to reinstall the batteries so they could benefit from the trickle charge from the panel, both while inside the shop and, later, outdoors again. As I installed the batteries, I realized that I should have run the power feed from the service panel through the existing battery switch, not from the positive buss, since the buss was on the battery/always hot side of the switch. Since I didn’t install or change any of the basic battery and engine-side wiring, which the owner had installed the previous season, it hadn’t immediately occurred to me. So I re-led the supply cable to the proper terminal on the battery switch, and finished up the other battery connections. I led a pair of wires from the new battery gauge to the battery terminals as required, a simple installation that didn’t require a shunt like most battery monitors. The battery boxes fit securely in the space I’d built for them on the new platform, and I strapped them down with the nylon straps.
Once my new, longer bolts arrived for the chainplates, I got to work on the final installation of the remaining nine chainplates, beginning with the port after three, which serviced the mizzen stays and mainmast backstay. I’d install deck cover plates and sealant for all the new chainplates later.
I finished up the day with the six chainplates for the mainmast. Access to the knees for securing many of these chainplates, particularly on the port side, was tight and at the limits of practical workability, so this chore took time, but by quitting time all the new chainplates were in place and bolted securely with the new bolts and large washers.
Total time billed on this job today: 7.5 hours
0600 Weather Observation: 30°, cloudy. Forecast for the day: Clouds, snow showers, then steadier and heavier snow overnight.
Tuesday
Working through the morning, I finished up the wiring in the port cockpit locker, routing and terminating the remaining 8 or 9 wires to the negative distribution buss and leading the positive ends out through the panel hole for later attention and connection to the panel itself.
I moved my operation into the cabin, and prepared for the final connections at the new service panel. My first step with the panel was to connect the little wires included with the panel–but left disconnected–that powered the panel’s backlight system. These are the little bundles of yellow and red wires shown below.
The first wiring task for the panel was to prepare a double pole, double throw (DPDT) toggle switch to control the combination masthead light unit the owner had provided. This light, requiring just two wires to the masthead for the owner’s desired functions, would light as an all-around white light (anchor light or for use during motor operation) or a tricolor navigation light for sailing, but to make the two wires function in different ways this crossover switch was needed. I added a ground wire from the negative buss to the wire pair leading to the mast, and, following the wiring diagram included in the instructions, prepared the switch for installation, then installed it through the small hole I’d prepared earlier in the teak faceplate.
Leaving enough extra wire to allow the panel to be removed and laid flat on the countertop for service, I labeled and terminated all the positive wire ends from the various circuits. Then, I made the connections to individual breakers on the back of the panel.
I prepared and attached lengths of #2 battery cable from the negative and positive distribution busses in the electrical area to the back side of the new service panel, then used these to help route and tie down the other wires neatly, while allowing panel removal and installation.
Now I could install the panel.
With a temporary battery hookup, I tested everything I could for now. I didn’t bother hooking up the battery gauge for this test, and the mast lighting would await completion and a test at a later time. I ordered a few additional labels to complete the panel and replace my temporary and ugly tape label that I installed just for my use at the moment.
This mainly completed the wiring work on the boat, though I had the simple wiring for the solar panel still to come. For this, the owner asked that the panel be mounted on the stern rail, using some hardware he’d already provided for the purpose, so with this in mind I went back into the cockpit locker and prepared the overhead so I could install a series of wire mounts leading aft to the transom, so they’d be ready for wiring next time.
I finished up by working on the new chainplate installation, beginning on the starboard side aft, the most difficult three to reach. Although I got these installed successfully, I decided that the bolts I’d ordered were just a bit shorter than I liked. I’d measured the old bolts after removal and ordered accordingly, but the originals must have been cut off flush with the nuts, as new 2″ bolts were only barely long enough for the new installation. Instead, I ordered longer bolts that I’d use to do the remaining 9 chainplates later.
Total time billed on this job today: 8 hours
0600 Weather Observation: 31°, cloudy. Forecast for the day: Mainly cloudy, high 30s