110 Cookson Lane | Whitefield, ME 04353 | 207-232-7600 | tim@lackeysailing.com
Ms Lynne G | Wednesday, August 26, 2014
First thing, I moved the stands and scraped and sanded away the remaining bottom paint from those areas, along with the bottom of the keel.
The original gelcoat on the topsides had never been painted, and despite various small nicks and gouges was in good shape overall. To begin preparations, I washed the topsides with solvent to remove contaminants. Afterwards, I removed the various stickers, striping, and old lettering with a heat gun (not shown).
Continuing, I sanded the hull from gunwale to waterline with a 6" finishing sander and two grits, 80-120.
With a compass, I marked a rough line on the topsides about 3-1/2" down from the deck edge. Later, I'd remove all the gelcoat above that line when I began preparations for the deck edge tabbing and other treatment, but for now it just showed me the upper limits of any of the topside gouges I needed to work on. I went around the boat with a small rotary sander and gouged out any nicks and dings in the topsides that needed filling and smoothing. There were not many such areas.
There were two erroneous through hull holes, one on each side of the boat, left over from the depth transducer and speedo units. To prepare for patching these holes, I ground out circular areas about each hole to provide room and bonding area for new fiberglass.
After vacuuming and solvent-washing the entire hull, I applied a first round of fairing filler (epoxy) to those areas required, including the various topside divots, around the ballast keel joint, and some areas on the bottom where the gelcoat had come off during stripping.
I masked over the through hull holes from inside, and filled the small holes with a thickened epoxy mixture before installing three layers of biaxial material to the prepared patch areas. Sometime later, I'd patch from the inside as well.
Total Time Billed on This Job Today: 7
Hours
