110 Cookson Lane | Whitefield, ME 04353 | 207-232-7600 | tim@lackeysailing.com |
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Khasanah | Saturday, March 23, 2013 After various discussions regarding the course of the project in and around the owner's traveling schedule, we eventually determined a work list based on my earlier inspection. The most significant project to undertake would be the recoring of the little coachroof, a job I'd start in the near future. With limited time on hand this day, I decided to begin some of the smaller jobs on the list, starting with installing a main AC shore power breaker. A pervious owner had installed a simple shorepower system to power a battery charger on board, and had wired the system through a normal household outlet, which more or less served as a junction box. With no need for the outlet, but a desire for a safer and more proper system and based on the results of a prepurchase survey, the owner requested that I install a breaker instead of the outlet. |
After I removed the outlet, I installed new ring terminals on the existing wiring, and made the connections to a 30-amp AC main breaker panel. |
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It was only after I'd made the connections and was preparing to install the breaker panel that I noticed that all or most of the wires' insulation was sliced through right where the outside cable sheathing had been cut by a previous installer. This is noticeable in the photo above, particularly on the white wire towards the middle of the photo, right next to the black sheathing. I couldn't leave it like that, with bare wiring showing through, so I cut off the new wire ends I'd just installed, then cut back the sheathed cable a bit further so I could get back to better wire; this meant that I'd also have to extend the cables, since they were now too short to be practicable. This was about when I noticed that the sheathed cable exiting the back side of the cockpit receptacle was loose, and pulled right out of the terminals there. So I replaced the entire cable from the cockpit receptacle, removing the outlet so I could access the screw terminals and secure the new wire within. From here, the remainder of the wiring job went more smoothly, and I soon had the new wires connected to the panel and ready for final installation. |
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There was one more hiccup on the way. While the panel was a good fit in the original outlet hole in terms of covering the opening, I soon found that there was no wood behind the screw locations, so no way to secure the panel. To get around this, I prepared little squares of plywood which I glued in place in the corners, after which I could finally secure the panel in place. Not as simple a job as I'd anticipated, but in the end the system would be better for it. |
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The wiring took longer than I'd planned, leaving me with little time before I had to depart for other commitments, so I filled the time by removing the old name and hailport from the transom in preparation for a new transom surface and name. The transom featured a couple old holes that had been marginally repaired, and the owner was anxious to try for a wood-grained transom, in part to hide the old repairs, and in part for its appearance and uniqueness. With a solid wood installation seeming far too labor intensive and expensive to justify, the owner found a 3M woodgrain vinyl product--mainly intended for the automotive industry--that looked like a high-quality product, and after review I thought it looked interesting too, and worth a try in this instance, albeit with numerous caveats since it was a rather unorthodox idea, and something I'd never tried before. I ordered the material, and looked forward to trying it out upon arrival |
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With the transom cleaned up and ready for some minor repair work so the old holes and other minor divots wouldn't adversely affect the new surface, I moved on to the hull, which we'd decided to clean up by buffing, since the original gelcoat--while old--was still in decent condition, with no major issues or interruptions. I had enough time to work my way down about half of the starboard side. |
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