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    | Systems: 
      Diesel Fuel System |   
 
  
    | Earlier, I had chosen a location at the 
		forward end of the engine room in which to place the fuel tank, and at 
		that time constructed a 
		rigid platform to secure the tank.  Now, it was time to buy and 
		install a tank, filter, and associated plumbing. 
		Originally, I had expected to use a plastic 
		fuel tank, such as the rotomolded type made by Tempo.  Then, 
		browsing through yet another catalog, I found an aluminum tank that was 
		the right size and for only a small price premium, so I decided to go 
		with that.  I ordered the tank, but when it arrived it was not only 
		damaged in shipment, but the tank was not what I had expected:  the 
		tank I received was for abovedecks use, complete with a screw-on fill 
		cap.  (It was the plastic cap, with built-in gauge, that was 
		damaged.) I contacted the vendor and received a 
		replacement tank, but to my dismay the new tank was also an abovedecks 
		model.  A careful scrutiny of the catalog seemed to indicate that I 
		had been mistaken in my impressions about the tank.  I had been 
		sure that the model number I chose set up for belowdecks installation, 
		and the small picture included seemed to reinforce this belief, but in 
		the end I determined that I had been mistaken. They did have another tank, with a 
		different model number, that appeared to be the right thing, but my 
		inspection of the tanks I had received showed relatively poor quality of 
		construction, with welding that lacked the look of high quality, so I 
		elected to not buy an aluminum tank after all. |  
    | 
  By 
		now, it was the beginning of the week in which I had intended to install 
		the fuel system, and I was still tankless.  I consulted some other 
		catalogs, and eventually settled on a 12 gallon plastic tank by Kracor, 
		which seemed to be a nicer tank than the plastic Tempo tanks and was 
		already set up with a fitting for diesel return lines (while the Tempo 
		tanks require a retrofit kit).  To my pleasure, the tank--and the 
		aluminum hold down brackets--were in stock, meaning that I would have 
		them the next morning, so I ordered the tank. |  
    | 
  With 
		the tank in hand, the first item of business was to change out the fuel 
		line fittings.  The fitting supplied with the tank was for 3/8" 
		fuel line, but I was only using 1/4", so I removed the fitting and 
		replaced it with the proper size.  I also removed the blank plug 
		for the return line and installed a second nipple there. |  
    | 
  Next, 
		I placed the tank on the platform and secured it in place with the two 
		aluminum brackets, which hooked over some molded recesses in the tank 
		wall.  Plastic tanks swell when filled with fuel, so I left some 
		room for expansion by securing the bracket braces about 1/2" away from 
		the tank.  I coated the bottom of the brackets and the screw holes 
		with polysulfide as a safeguard. |  
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    | 
  With 
		the tank secured in place on the platform, I turned my attention to the 
		fuel fill hose.  I planned to run the fill up to the starboard 
		sidedeck, the closest location, so with a length of 1-1/2" A2 fuel fill 
		hose attached to the tank nipple I roughed out the run, and then secured 
		the hose in place with rubber-lined stainless steel cushion clamps, 
		adding some split hose chafe protection in a few areas where required.  
		For the moment, I left the top end of the hose long while I installed 
		the deck fitting. |  
    | I found a really interesting deck fitting for the project.  Instead 
		of the traditional slotted fill cap, which tend to be hard to remove and 
		require special tools, my new fitting featured a unique pop-up lever 
		built into the fill cap.  The knurled stainless steel popup lever 
		allowed the cap to be turned, and a quick press pushed it flush with the 
		surface.
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    | 
  Once 
		I determined the location for the fill plate, I drilled an appropriately 
		sized hole with a hole saw, and marked and drilled for the fastener 
		holes.  I chose a saw slightly larger than the fill plate.  
		Then, I taped over the bottom of the hole and filled the opening with 
		thickened epoxy resin, including the overdrilled screw holes, and 
		allowed that to cure overnight.  The next day, I bored a new--and 
		slightly smaller--hole in the center of the epoxy plug, leaving a thin 
		band of epoxy all around the opening, thereby sealing the plywood deck 
		structure against moisture. |  
    | 
 
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    | 
  Next, 
		I installed the fitting in a heavy bed of polysulfide, coating all 
		surfaces, and fastened it in place with three #12 oval head screws.  
		I cleaned up the excess caulk, and continued belowdecks by cutting and 
		installing the fuel fill hose on the underside of the fitting, clamping 
		it securely. |  
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    | 
  I 
		ran the 5/8" vent line from the fuel tank to the transom, securing it 
		along the way with cushion clamps as required.  I ran the line up 
		beneath the starboard sidedeck, and where the hose passed through the 
		after bulkhead I added some split hose for chafe protection. |  
    | 
  At 
		the transom, I chose a location for the vent fitting, ensuring that I 
		could get to it from inside and that the hose would have a clean run to 
		the fitting.  Then, I drilled a hole for the fitting (after taping 
		the transom to prevent chipping), and installed it in a bed of 
		polysulfide.  Then, I completed the hose run in the lazarette, 
		securing the hose as needed and clamping it to the new fitting. 
		
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    | 
  After 
		some consideration and several mockups, I decided to mount the fuel 
		filter on the forward bulkhead, just to starboard of the tank--and out 
		of the way, yet easily accessible, location.  On the inlet of the 
		filter, I installed a bronze shutoff valve, and installed the 
		appropriate nipple on the outlet.  I sealed the threaded fuel 
		fittings with pipe dope. |  
    | 
  With 
		the filter mounted, I ran the supply and return lines as required, 
		keeping the lines neatly secured and out of the way as much as possible.  
		I was able to make the runs to the engine and back on the back side of 
		the nearest cockpit support beam, hiding the lines from view--and from 
		accidental damage.  I added some chafe protection where required, 
		such as where the hoses made the turn beneath the beam at the after end 
		when they ran out to the engine. |  
    | 
  Surprisingly, 
		the whole process--from tank receipt to installation to conceiving, 
		running and securing the various hoses--took nearly an entire day, but 
		was great fun and very satisfying.   |  
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