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From a Bare Hull:  The Deck (Page 2)


Final Pre-Sheathing Punch List:  Breasthook
I planned to reuse the original stem casting/chainplate, and to make life tolerable, I had to get it installed before the decks were sheathed.  Why?  Well, the access to the bolt locations through the knee inside the stem, when confined by decks above, is extremely tight.  It made far more sense to bolt the piece in place first, and to sheathe and finish the decks after.

breasthook3.jpg (40423 bytes)In the original boat, the stem casting was designed to rest atop a raised, flat portion of the molded toerail.  Both for ease of adapting the casting to the new deck, and also for pleasing aesthetic qualities, I decided to build a solid mahogany breasthook at the stem, which would support the stem piece and provide a clean, attractive termination for the decks.


breasthook1.jpg (33972 bytes)With the stem casting in hand, I mocked up the general setup at the bow.  I had a long piece of 8/4 mahogany in stock, but before I could do anything with it I had to plane it to the proper thickness, which was just over 1-1/2"--the height of the original "step" built into the casting.  After numerous passes through the planer, I finally had the piece dimensioned properly.  I tested the fit of the blank at the stem, and found that the casting aligned nicely with the boltholes--or was close enough that I knew that final sanding and fitting would make it so.

breasthook2.jpg (35952 bytes)Obviously, this piece was much longer than necessary; however, I planned this, since the piece was not wide enough to cover the area sufficiently, so I planned to cut it in half and glue the two sections together side by side in order to obtain the overall width I needed, which was nearly 13" at the widest part.  My conceptual idea in my mind included extending the mahogany breasthook some inches aft of the bronze stem casting, which would also necessitate carving an angled slot to accommodate the after tab of the stem piece; this concept will become clear later in this description.

breasthookblankglue.jpg (30980 bytes)Pleased with the general fit of the blank, I cut it in half across the short dimension, and glued the two pieces together with epoxy, clamping it securely; I set the blank aside to cure before continuing.

The next day, the blank was cured, so I removed the clamps and sanded away the squeezed-out epoxy.  Then, I took a moment to square up the forward and after edges of the blank; the sides would eventually be cut to match the curvature and angle of the hull, so I left them rough.


measuredblank.jpg (64849 bytes)


chiselnotch.jpg (78120 bytes)My next step was to cut out a notch to allow the angled aft tab on the stem piece to fit into the breasthook.  I marked out the location of the leading edge of the notch, the center, and the after edge--which would allow a socket wrench to access the nut on the eventual bolt--and used a bevel gauge to determine the proper angle of the cuts.  Using a chisel, I carefully carved away, removing the material as needed.  I completed the first side up to the centerline mark, then repeated the process on the after side.


finishednotch.jpg (73262 bytes)
Once the rough chiseling was complete, I spent some time with various grades of sandpaper trying to smooth out the inside of the notch.  Some of the notch would end up being visible in the final construction.


blankmock1.jpg (37967 bytes)I mocked up the assembly on the stem and adjusted the breasthook till it was centered and equidistant from the forwardmost deck beam.  I noted that the old oak stem knee was protruding too far and was "high centering" the breasthook blank, so I ground the knee down till the new piece fit more closely.  This also brought the boltholes into near perfect alignment.  I also ensured that the blank was level from side to side.

blankmock2.jpg (33211 bytes)Once the blank was properly positioned, I eyed it critically from several angles, and marked the location where the blank intersected the hull at the after end.  I was still undecided whether I was going to leave the blank as long as it was, or cut it shorter (closer to the aft end of the bronze tab).  I discovered that the hull was slightly asymmetrical, as the intersection points were different on each side.  This complicated the matter a bit.  I had hoped to have the breasthook extend a bit aft of the stem casting, mostly for aesthetic reasons, but it might not work.  From beneath, I marked the outline of the hull on the blank for future cutting, and also noted the angle of the hull with a bevel gauge. 

breasthook61504.jpg (31168 bytes)With a bandsaw, I cut roughly along the line at the appropriate angle, leaving some extra for final fitting later.  Once I had the edges cut, it was clear that I would need to shorten the piece, so I trimmed an inch or two off the after side, right in line with the center part of my carefully-carved notch.  Pleased with the overall fit, I permanently installed the breasthook on the stem in a bed of thickened epoxy adhesive; later, the throughbolts securing the bronze stem casting would add additional strength to and means of securing the piece, but at that time the bolts I needed were on backorder.

breasthook61904.jpg (28271 bytes)When the epoxy cured, I sanded the excess wood off the breasthook with a belt sander, following the angle of the hull.  I left it like that for the moment, since I was unsure how the whole thing would eventually integrate with the deck and planned toerail.

 


stemgooped.jpg (23671 bytes)To complete the stem area, I finally secured the bronze casting with bronze through bolts and polysulfide sealant.  The installation was the final item on the list of chores that had to be completed before sheathing the decks, since access to the inside of the stem area would be difficult to impossible once the decks were covered.


stembolted.jpg (29335 bytes)With the casting permanently installed, I moved on to the deck sheathing.

Continue>

 


stemcleaned.jpg (32342 bytes)
 

 

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