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    | From a Bare
      Hull:  The Deck
      (Page 2) |  
  
    | Final Pre-Sheathing Punch List: 
      Breasthook
 I planned to reuse the original stem casting/chainplate, and to make
      life tolerable, I had to get it installed before the decks were
      sheathed.  Why?  Well, the access to the bolt locations through
      the knee inside the stem, when confined by decks above, is extremely
      tight.  It made far more sense to bolt the piece in place first, and
      to sheathe and finish the decks after.
  In
      the original boat, the stem casting was designed to rest atop a raised,
      flat portion of the molded toerail.  Both for ease of adapting the
      casting to the new deck, and also for pleasing aesthetic qualities, I
      decided to build a solid mahogany breasthook at the stem, which would
      support the stem piece and provide a clean, attractive termination for the
      decks.
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  With
    the stem casting in hand, I mocked up the general setup at the bow.  I
    had a long piece of 8/4 mahogany in stock, but before I could do anything
    with it I had to plane it to the proper thickness, which was just over
    1-1/2"--the height of the original "step" built into the
    casting.  After numerous passes through the planer, I finally had the
    piece dimensioned properly.  I tested the fit of the blank at the stem,
    and found that the casting aligned nicely with the boltholes--or was close
    enough that I knew that final sanding and fitting would make it so. |  
    | 
  Obviously,
    this piece was much longer than necessary; however, I planned this, since
    the piece was not wide enough to cover the area sufficiently, so I planned
    to cut it in half and glue the two sections together side by side in order
    to obtain the overall width I needed, which was nearly 13" at the
    widest part.  My conceptual idea in my mind included extending the
    mahogany breasthook some inches aft of the bronze stem casting, which would
    also necessitate carving an angled slot to accommodate the after tab of the
    stem piece; this concept will become clear later in this description. |  
    | 
  Pleased
    with the general fit of the blank, I cut it in half across the short
    dimension, and glued the two pieces together with epoxy, clamping it
    securely; I set the blank aside to cure before continuing. The next day, the blank was cured, so I
    removed the clamps and sanded away the squeezed-out epoxy.  Then, I
    took a moment to square up the forward and after edges of the blank; the
    sides would eventually be cut to match the curvature and angle of the hull,
    so I left them rough. |  
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    | 
  My
    next step was to cut out a notch to allow the angled aft tab on the stem
    piece to fit into the breasthook.  I marked out the location of the
    leading edge of the notch, the center, and the after edge--which would allow
    a socket wrench to access the nut on the eventual bolt--and used a bevel
    gauge to determine the proper angle of the cuts.  Using a chisel, I
    carefully carved away, removing the material as needed.  I completed
    the first side up to the centerline mark, then repeated the process on the
    after side. |  
    | 
  Once
    the rough chiseling was complete, I spent some time with various grades of
    sandpaper trying to smooth out the inside of the notch.  Some of the
    notch would end up being visible in the final construction.
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    | 
  I
    mocked up the assembly on the stem and adjusted the breasthook till it was
    centered and equidistant from the forwardmost deck beam.  I noted that
    the old oak stem knee was protruding too far and was "high
    centering" the breasthook blank, so I ground the knee down till the new
    piece fit more closely.  This also brought the boltholes into near
    perfect alignment.  I also ensured that the blank was level from side
    to side. |  
    | 
  Once
    the blank was properly positioned, I eyed it critically from several angles,
    and marked the location where the blank intersected the hull at the after
    end.  I was still undecided whether I was going to leave the blank as
    long as it was, or cut it shorter (closer to the aft end of the bronze
    tab).  I discovered that the hull was slightly asymmetrical, as the
    intersection points were different on each side.  This complicated the
    matter a bit.  I had hoped to have the breasthook extend a bit aft of
    the stem casting, mostly for aesthetic reasons, but it might not work. 
    From beneath, I marked the outline of the hull on the blank for future
    cutting, and also noted the angle of the hull with a bevel gauge. |  
    | 
  With a bandsaw, I cut roughly along the line at the
    appropriate angle, leaving some extra for final fitting later.  Once I
    had the edges cut, it was clear that I would need to shorten the piece, so I
    trimmed an inch or two off the after side, right in line with the center
    part of my carefully-carved notch.  Pleased with the overall fit, I
    permanently installed the breasthook on the stem in a bed of thickened epoxy
    adhesive; later, the throughbolts securing the bronze stem casting would add
    additional strength to and means of securing the piece, but at that time the
    bolts I needed were on backorder. |  
    | 
  When the epoxy cured, I sanded the excess wood
    off the breasthook with a belt sander, following the angle of the
    hull.  I left it like that for the moment, since I was unsure how the
    whole thing would eventually integrate with the deck and planned toerail.  
     |  
    | 
  To
    complete the stem area, I finally secured the
    bronze casting with bronze through bolts and polysulfide sealant.  The
    installation was the final item on the list of chores that had to be completed
    before sheathing the decks, since access to the inside of the stem area
    would be difficult to impossible once the decks were covered. |  
    | 
  With the casting permanently installed, I
    moved on to the deck sheathing.
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