Lackey Sailing | tim lackey

Continuing to follow the comprehensive manual, my next step was to remove the nailing strips and nails from the glued-up hull panels. With a chisel, I broke apart the plywood enough that I could grab the nail heads with a hammer and pull out the nails. The puzzle joints had ended up nicely flush and with only a gloss of excess epoxy that had (as expected) spread out from the joints from the clamping pressure.

Next, I lightly block-sanded the outside faces of the joints to scuff the epoxy and make the joints smooth. Fortunately, they were already smooth and the sanding exercise was minimal. Then, I sanded the entire interior faces of all the hull panels with 120 grit on a vibrating sander, just to lightly smooth the factory plywood texture and prepare the inner surfaces of the glued joints. From there, I set up five of the panels (the most that would fit on the dedicated build table) in the orientation as directed, and marked the table at the edges of each panel so I could drill pilot holes through the table, which would give me a place to drive screws from beneath to secure the panels for the sheathing step to come.

With that complete, I covered the table with plastic sheeting and replaced the five panels, aligning them with the marks and with the after edges flush with the edge of the table, and secured them all with one screw at each end for each panel. The panels rested flat and flush on the table, and the screws would help hold the panels securely while rolling out fiberglass in the next step.

Since I had additional table space in the shop, I set up an auxiliary station to prepare the final two hull panels for sheathing as well, so I could do all the fiberglassing in one session rather than spread out over two different days had I been limited to the single build table. I also prepared as needed the transom, the after bulkhead, and the two transom inwhales and a dagger-like stem piece, all of which the manual indicated I could work on in the same session, using offcuts of fiberglass from the main panels.

My final step for now was to fill all the nail holes leftover from the clamping with epoxy. Before installing the panels on the bench, I’d prepared the bottom sides with tape over the nail holes, and now I used a syringe to fill all the holes with an epoxy mixture, leaving this to cure before continuing.

I located and collected all the plywood hull panels from my storage area, and laid them out on the work table: two panels to make up the bottom, and three sets of matched panels to make up each side of the hull. I was briefly confused with one of the starboard bow panels, which didn’t seem to fit with its after counterpart, but soon determined that the panel was simply mislabeled from the kit, as #3 rather than #2, so I corrected the label as needed. As shown in the manual, I laid out the panels on the table and stacked the mirror-image port and starboard panels atop one another in the layout below.

Next, and in accordance with the manual, I located and pencil-darkened all the lightly-scribed alignment marks on the panels; presumably this would help keep these visible through the next steps coming up.

All the panels had some small tabs on their edges, leftover from when the panels were cut on the CNC machine. My next step was to remove these tabs with a knife and sandpaper, bringing each panel to its intended shape. This was a simple, if somewhat tedious, process, but didn’t take long.

Next on the agenda was to make some final preparations and dry-fit the puzzle joints for each panel. I lightly scuffed the milled joints with a Scotchbrite pad to remove any loose fibers or splinters, then tested each joint for fit. I found the machined joints to be an appropriately-tight fit, easily fitted together with a deadblow hammer and with no need for any adjustments. I assembled all seven joints as seen below.

After carefully disassembling the joints and moving the panels out of the way, I prepared some nailing strips from 1/4″ plywood, and some plastic sheeting cut to fit beneath each seam as I assembled the panels flat on the table. Then, I set up some clamps at the end of the work table to hold the hull panels vertically for epoxy application on the puzzle joints, all this as directed in the build manual.

I glued all the joints as described in the manual. Other than the large bottom panel, of which there was just the one, there were two of each of the side panels–one each for port and starboard. The mirror image panels were to be glued one atop the other, so to begin I set up the port and starboard #1 panels (2 pieces per side) in my clamping setup and applied epoxy to the joints–2 coats on all bonding surfaces of the milled joints. Then, I assembled the joints on the flat table, with plastic sheeting beneath the joints and between the two panels, as well as on the top joint, with the inside faces of each panel facing one another. I removed excess epoxy from the accessible side of each joint once I’d assembled them. Finally, I aligned together and secured the two identical–but mirrored–panels to the table top with three small nails (one at each end and one near the joint), and finally secured the joint with a plywood nailing strip on each side.

I repeated the process with the single bottom panel, then the pairs of #2 and #3 side panels, leaving the glued assemblies to cure overnight or longer.

The first step towards building the dinghy was to construct a large, flat working surface, on which much of the preparation and assembly would take place. While existing countertops and work spaces might have been made to work as is, I chose to follow the manual and build a large surface that would be particularly useful during initial panel layout, gluing, and sheathing. With space at a premium in the shop, with two other boats inside, I decided to use an existing work table in the woodshop as the basis for the new worktop built from a full sheet of plywood supported with a framework of 2x4s beneath to support it throughout and maintain its flatness. This didn’t take long, but it was something I’d been intending to get done for a while, and on which the rest of the project depended. With the other existing work surfaces in the shop, I’d have additional room for subassemblies and such as needed, all of which I hoped would help streamline the project.

Ten years after her first visit to the shop, Danusia was back for some refreshing, focused mainly on the brightwork and hull. At the end of the season, the owner had her trucked to the shop, where the boat would spend the winter as I worked on the various projects.

I wouldn’t get deeply into the project for a few weeks, but with some time at hand I spent part of a day working on some of the early set up and preparations, starting with measuring and marking the existing waterline and boottop for reference, stating at the stern, where I measured from the bottom edge of the transom to the top and bottom of the boottop, and to the visible scum line that suggested the actual floating waterline. These measurements would come into play later when I struck the new lines.

I repeated the process at the bow, using the convenient bobstay fitting as my basis for measurement.

Next, I documented the “as-arrived” condition of the hull.

Next, I checked and corrected the position of the boat so she was level from side to side, which would be helpful later in the project as the time came to remark the waterline. As originally positioned, she was a bit low to port, so with some adjustment of the stands I eventually obtained level.

Next, I set up staging around the boat that would allow me to comfortably work at deck level, mainly on the brightwork, which required stripping, sanding, and refinishing. I planned to do this work first. The height of the boat required that I add blocking beneath my planks to raise things to the appropriate level.

To wrap things up for now, I documented the condition of the brightwork and decks, both of which would receive needed attention during this shop visit.

A couple weeks after the unofficial end of the project, the owner came up for part of a day to sort through and load the gear back on the boat to get her ready once more. With that complete, over the subsequent weekend I finished up by installing a new holder for the VHF mic (I never found the original but it will probably turn up somewhere on board eventually), and secured the boat for her transport back to the waterfront, which happened a couple days later.

Back to Calliope Girl

The project was winding down, but I had a few odds and ends remaining to finish up, starting with the chainlocker hatch, which I’d build simply from plywood and painted. I contemplated ways to install some teak trim, but the pre-made and pre-finished pieces I had available weren’t really suitable, and I decided less was more with this hatch.

Next, I installed a sea rail in front of the galley range, ensuring it remained clear of the stove as it gimballed.

I reinstalled the hardware, then installed the hanging locker door after first removing my tools and supplied that I’d stored within. For access to the hinges, which required the door be open, I had to remove the three inner pieces of the mast enclosure, which I’d planned to do anyway; I set those aside in the v-berth. Then, I installed the door to enclose the head, unchanged from arrival.

In a short work day, I continued work on the mast enclosure, starting next with the forward-facing section. I laid out the remaining pieces to help determine which was which, as it wasn’t immediately obvious, and was starting to compare grain patterns with the photos I had from when the boat was delivered, but then I noticed that some smart person had labeled the forward piece before removing it from the boat, so that made the whole process easier. I cut the existing panel slightly shorter to match the measurement I’d taken in the boat, and installed it with a couple screws just to hold it.

I continued with the after panel, which required a relief cut on the bottom to fit around the battery box. Again, I installed this panel with just a couple screws to hold it, as I planned to dismantle the enclosure once I had checked and fitted all the related parts. I marked the top of the panel for future reference as well.

Finally, I installed the inboard section to close off the box. The last piece of the puzzle would be the door that closed off the head, and latched against the inboard panel, but installation of the door would have to wait till the hanging locker door was hung first.

Having accomplished what I wanted, I took a moment to clean up the cabin and set up all the cushions so I could get some decent photos of the more-or-less finished project, with just a few small items on my list to finish up over the next few days.

Finally, I applied another coat of white enamel to the chainlocker hatch.

In the galley, I unmasked the various trim now that the varnishing was mostly complete. I installed the shelf on the port side to finish off the space beneath the electrical panel. I was still looking for the microphone clip for the VHF, which I’d removed earlier in the project but hadn’t put my hands on yet.

It was time to install the range, finally. To get the unit into the boat, I used my tractor bucket to lift it as high as possible next to the boat, from which point it was a pretty easy and short lift into the cockpit while standing on a ladder next to the bucket; then it was pretty straightforward to get it into the cabin.

With the gimbal mounts already in place, I hoped installation would go smoothly, and it mostly did. From the getgo, I’d been wary of the screws used to secure the bracket covers in place: the manufacturer supplied extremely long screws (for which I could determine no need for the excess length), and during my test fits and assemblies earlier in the project I’d found that these long screws tended to bind and become difficult long before they were all the way in. So I’d purchased shorter screws with the same thread, and these new screws worked in 3 of the 4 mounting holes. One, however, started to gall before all the way in, and I unthreaded it so I could try with a fresh one, but then the screw wouldn’t unthread all the way. It was loose and spinning, but I couldn’t get “upforce” on it to pull it free. This silliness took far too much time to finally correct, given the tight working quarters and lack of access (as usual). I liked a lot about these gimbal mounts and how they worked, but these fixing screws for the cover plate were problematic of concept.

Once I had the mounting finally complete, I hooked up the propane hose behind the stove, and drilled for and installed the harbor lock at the back corner of the stovetop. The stove swung freely and completely through its gimbal swing in both directions, though the forward bulkhead (original to the boat and not changed during this project) was slightly out of plumb, causing closer but non-problematic clearance at the bottom corner on that side.

Next, I installed the two propane tanks in the locker and hooked one up. Clearance was tight for slipping the tanks through the hatch thanks to the mass of hoses and wiring, but roomy enough once inside. To start, I turned the valve, then turned it off, and waited to see if the pressure gauge dropped, which it didn’t. Then, I powered up the stove breaker and turned on the solenoid through its new control panel, and soap-tested all the hose and threaded connections to check again for leaks. With none found, I prepared to test the stove. First I had to install the battery for the self-ignitor, and this was very oddly located in the back underneath corner of the stove–I had to swing the stove way out to reach it. I never would have found it without the instructions, and even then it took a while. But the clicker worked well, and before long I had the burners lit.

With the stove and propane work complete, I turned off the tank, closed the locker, and continued with prepwork, then finishing work, on the chainlocker hatch, head bulkhead, and the hanging locker door.

One of the last untouched items on my list was the mast surround, which was a plywood structure built by others to enclose the mast once stepped. This had never been a priority item, and unfortunately there wasn’t an opportunity now to rethink the whole area (which also incorporated a doorway to close off the head), so my goal was to see if I could reinstall the existing enclosure with minimal modification. Though I’d removed the pieces early in the project, I was not familiar with how they worked in particular so at the onset wasn’t sure what this might entail.

After reviewing photos of the enclosure in situ at the beginning of the project, and taking some measurements, I started with a simple cut on the aft side of the first panel, which was to fit against the head cabinet on centerline. I based this cut, which would start to allow the panel to fit around the battery box, on some assumptions, and the basic measurements I took from the space. When I test-fit the panel, I found the cut wouldn’t allow it to move far enough aft–the alignment was sort of preordained by a small piece of quarter-round trim on the inside of the panel, which fit over the head countertop–so over a series of additional and increasing cuts, I eventually got the panel to fit in its intended position. notched around the battery box and with a bit of the corner post nipped off to provide cushion clearance. Once the fit was as intended, I secured the panel with several screws.

The starter panel required the most potential modification, and the three remaining panels would likely continue more quickly. But that was for next time, as for now the day was done.

First thing, Jason delivered the new interior cushions, which looked terrific. Once he left, I installed the backrests with their hinges, and added spring catches to secure them. Better pictures without the work cloths on the sole will be forthcoming soon. Once I’d admired the new upholstery, I put the saloon cushions up in the forward cabin for safekeeping while I finished up work in the main cabin.

I finished up the battery connections with the new fuse holders I’d ordered, and then, after some final checks, fired up the system to check operation. Though I’d maintained the electrical system more or less intact throughout the project, I’d had to move and disconnect various things, so it was gratifying, as always, for things to work as intended. Every fixture I tried worked, on both AC and DC sides, except the port v-berth light, which probably needed a bulb.

Preparing for the final stove installation, I removed the remaining protective plastic from the stainless steel surround, and applied some stainless steel-colored sealant at the seams to finish things off. I planned to let that cure overnight before finalizing the installation.

I spent the rest of the day on the various small details that come at the end of a project, including some masking and paint in the port side of the head, more varnish work on the galley trim (satin on the bulkhead trim this time), some additional work on the new chainlocker access panel to clean up and sand the edge, followed by primer (I was working out ways to install some teak trim for visual interest later), and other miscellany as the larger items continued to be checked off the list. I also pulled the hanging locker door out from storage to clean it up and lightly sand it to prepare it for a coat of satin varnish so it would match the surrounding cabinetry; the varnish would happen next time.

My first task was to reinstall the ceiling planks in the forward cabin. These were part of the interior as it came to me, and earlier I’d removed them for a spruce-up and to access the hull behind when I was working in the space. They’d been complete and awaiting reinstallation for some time, so to begin I organized them in order on each side (I’d numbered them as I removed them, from bottom to top), then reinstalled them from the top down on each side. At the berth level, when the planks–which followed the sheerline–met the new berth platform at an angle, I cut the final two planks short as needed where they naturally ended, not worrying about the small exposed spaces since the cushions would cover the small gaps. (The original berth had allowed the final two planks to extend all the way aft, but the after end was below level by several inches.) Attempting to taper the planks to fill the space would have left unsupported sharp angles as there was no further support between the four widely-spaced wooden supports roughly glassed to the hull.

Once all the planks were installed, I cut and fitted trim pieces at the four corners to finish things off.

Departing the boat, when I broke the top step of my construction ladder for the second or third time during the project, I decided it was high time to permanently install the new companionway ladder. I’d planned to eke out a few more days with the decrepit 2×4 ladder–patched and shortened and lengthened and modified and repaired and “strengthened” and so forth over and over through many years and many boats–but enough was enough, and now I planned to retire the ladder permanently to the dumpster.

I installed the new companionway with bronze ladder brackets, located inside the ladder at the top of the engine compartment hatch, and protected the treads with some rags to get me through the final days of work.

I was expecting Jason to install the interior cushions later in the day (this ended up getting delayed for a day), so to prepare I spent some time cleaning up and removing unnecessary tools and things from the cabin. In the meantime, I continued to knock small jobs off my list, including running the propane hose up to the bulkhead heater and securing the excess, and installing the Charlie Noble on deck to finish off the installation.

In the galley, I spent far too much time installing a new gooseneck lamp and terminal block to which the CO detector could be wired, these small jobs taking so long because of extremely difficult access.

On the opposite side of the galley, I installed the bowl shelf and its fiddle trim, now that the shelf was fully painted (and the trim had a couple coats of varnish on it too). I bunged the screw holes. I had earlier made a small piece of trim to cover the edge of the vertical divider in this compartment, but couldn’t lay my hands on it now (late in the day I found it in a pile of spacers I’d used while varnishing trim, and which I’d just cleaned off a table a day or so before).

I spent a few minutes drilling out and tapping the starter holes in the mast step that I’d located once the new part arrived. This part could be easily removed later if needed.