(page 143 of 165)

Rhodes 3

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Thursday

Continuing where I left off, I sanded the remainder of the hull–the entire port side and  transom, working through 40 and 80 grit paper to remove the heavy, cracked old coatings.  The gelcoat, particularly close to the waterline, featured various heavy cracks and crazing, as well as pockmarks and areas where the gelcoat had cracked away, along with some older repairs.  The worst area was a few feet aft of the stem.

Under all the paint on the transom, I uncovered an old name, the ghost of which remained in the original gelcoat:  Glass Sloop.  I’m sure that owning a boat made from fiberglass was a jaw-dropping novelty in 1957.  (Amazingly, there are some even today who still feel fiberglass boats are something newfangled and somehow unworthy.  Silly them.)

Next, I finished up the deck sanding to remove the old coatings.  The deck gelcoat was badly crazed beneath and would require a fair bit of work to achieve a reasonable substrate for paint.  My hand for scale.

Most of the interior of the boat–at least the hull areas–required just a brief-ish scuffing with coarse paper, as the existing paint was sound and well-adhered, and there was no reason to go further.

The cockpit seats/air tanks required more substantial sanding to remove the flaky old coatings back to the (as expected) crazed and cracked original gelcoat.

There were several old repairs and/or areas that would require minor repair on the air tanks and near the centerboard trunk.

Additionally, the mast partners hole in the aft part of the foredeck had apparently been damaged long ago, probably when the mast was being stepped or unstepped and started to flop sideways before it was pulled all the way out of (or into) the hole, and the old repair was unworthy; my initial sanding removed the floppy, dry old cloth and shattered laminate from one side of the opening, but I’d surely come back to this for additional demolition work before working to rebuild the opening properly.  This looks like a sad little lopsided heart.

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Total time billed on this job today:  7.75 hours

0600 Weather Observation:
50°, clear.  Forecast for the day:  Sunny, high 70s

Rhodes 2

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Tuesday

Armed with a 5″ sander and 40 grit discs, I started at the starboard bow and worked to remove the old coatings from the hull.  I found a number of layers as I sanded, and fine-tuned the sanding process over time as I found the approach that worked the most efficiently.  The old coatings–mainly the heavy off-white top coat and a tan layer beneath the pale green–tended to gunk up the sanding discs quickly, slowing the process, but no worse than anything I was used to.

sand1-60716

Over the course of a few hours, I removed all the old paint from the starboard side of the hull, from gunwale to just below the scribed waterline (the old blue stripe was painted just below the scribe, explaining why it looked too low).  Once I’d removed the bulk of the paint with the coarser discs, I switched to 80 grit for a final (for now) cleaning pass to smooth the surface and remove any final bits of old paint. Things were looking vastly improved already.

The old gelcoat was in fair condition, with plenty of crazing and cracking, but essentially sound for all that.  There’d be plenty of work ahead to prepare it for new coatings, however.

sand5-60716

Weary of working on the hull, but with time still available, I turned to the starboard deck, and removed the old paint and nonskid from the foredeck aft.  I couldn’t reach the foredeck well enough for the required leverage from my position on the ground, so I’d finish that up another time.  The gray deck gelcoat beneath the old coatings was in poor-ish condition, with heavy crazing and cracking and that dry, almost crumbly texture common to boats from this era.

Total time billed on this job today:  4 hours

0600 Weather Observation:
45°, sunny.  Forecast for the day:  becoming more cloudy, possible shower, then possible thunderstorms in the afternoon.

Rhodes 1

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Monday

A local owner asked me to help him with some of the initial stages of restoration work on his 1957 Rhodes 18, a classic daysailer that had been rather neglected over the years.  I planned to work on the project sporadically over the coming weeks, in and around other commitments I had.

The condition upon arrival was quite poor, with badly weathered woodwork, chipped, cracked, crazed, checkered, and peeling paint and gelcoat, and a general state of disrepair that might make this seem an unworthy project.    The hull condition was outwardly horrific, with thick layers of mystery paint peeling off in sheets, and crazing visible in the underlying layers.  The deck was well-crazed, but the interior, other than being worn and tired, was in basically good condition.

However, the design was unique and interesting, and with still-active classes of the boat hither and yon, as well as the essentially sound condition of the boat (which also had an excellent rig and sails), we decided to dive in and see what we could make of her.

My first task was to support and level the boat on her little trailer.  One of the tires was badly cracked and losing air, so I jacked the trailer off both wheels, leveled the boat, and blocked the trailer tongue as well, which  lacked its own jack.

The original coamings were still in place, the only woodwork remaining, and there was still some hardware on deck.

During the remainder of the day, I removed all the hardware, as well as the coamings.  The hardware wasn’t difficult to remove, and access was quite good to all areas.  The old coamings were secured with many, many old bronze screws–the builders were of the “never use one where four will do” mentality–and the exposed screw heads had been sanded and worn down over the years, so most of the head stripped out during removal, forcing me to drill the heads in order to remove the coamings.    I did want to save the original coamings intact, if possible, for future use as patterns during replacement, which the owner would likely do himself once I was done with the boat.

With all that out of the way, I could think about getting down to brass tacks.  Before beginning surface preparations on the hull, I noted the existing position of the waterline, aka bottom edge of a painted stripe on the hull.  Although my feeling was the stripe was not in exactly the right location, evidenced by the staining at the waterline and other intangible factors, noting the existing position would at least give a starting point for the final coatings later.  I used easily-duplicatable reference points for my measuring tape at both stem and stern.  For the record, the measurements of note were 20-1/2″ at the stern, and 33″ at the stem.

With time running short on the day, I prepared some tools and equipment for sanding, and then used a putty knife to remove the worst pieces of the loose, thick, peeling coating on the hull.  I didn’t know what the outer coating was, but it seemed a lot like latex paint–thick, full of brush marks, and failing and peeling like a dried mud creek bed.  But in about 15 minutes’ time, I scraped away the worst parts.  Time would tell how this coating would resist sanding, but I’d soon see.

Total time billed on this job today:  3.75 hours

0600 Weather Observation:
55°, clouds and fog.  Forecast for the day:  Clearing, becoming sunny, high in the upper 70s

Patience 13

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Monday

Preparing for another project, and now that the bottom paint had had the weekend to cure, I moved Patience back outdoors to await her departure for the water in  a few weeks.  I thought the new striping looked terrific, and really made a difference to the boat’s appearance.

I offset the jackstands from the original locations so I could patch in the bottom paint, which I took care of once the boat was set.

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Patience 12

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Friday

I decided to mount the little solar controller near the companionway, where it’d be readily accessible for connection to the removable solar panel abovedecks, and also where I could run wiring conveniently (and out of sight) into the battery compartment for connection.    After bolting the controller in place, I led wiring from the output side down behind the companionway steps and then along an existing wire run into the battery compartment, where I connected the leads to the battery terminals as required.  When not in use, the connector for the solar panel could be easily tucked in behind the controller for safekeeping.

The owner requested a simple lead through the companionway for the wires, so I modified the top drop board in the companionway to accept the wire from the solar panel–it was easy to slip in and out on its way down to the controller, but allowed the sliding hatch to cover the opening.

With other work in the cabin complete, I installed the new cabin sole panels, and cleaned up any final remnants of the project.

Finally, I masked off and painted the bottom, completing the new appearance, and completing the project.

Total time billed on this job today:  4.25 hours

0600 Weather Observation:
56°, fog and clouds, light drizzle.  Forecast for the day:  cloudy, maybe a shower, 60s

Salty 50

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Thursday

As a last-minute addition, the owner requested installation of a bilge high-water alarm, which I’d ordered a while back but had been awaiting time to install.  Now was that time.

The system required a little float sensor to be mounted near or at the bottom of the bilge, a challenging prospect on this boat with the available access.  The only way in was through the removable shelf containing the starter battery in the engine room, so I disconnected the battery and moved it aside, removing the shelf.  The bottom of the bilge was juuuuust beyond the realistic extent of my reach, given the limits on head and shoulder room at the top, but I cleaned up the side of the sump a bit to accept epoxy and a fiberglass mounting block, to which I installed the sensor float in its supplied bracket.  With the back of the mounting block buttered up, I pressed it into place at the bottom of the sump.  I led the two small wires through some flexible conduit and brought them up into the engine room, leading them through a space at the forward end of the battery platform.

I prepared an opening for the little control panel (which contained the horn for the alarm) just forward of the battery switch, where there was convenient access for the required wiring.  With existing obstructions, there was pretty much only one place the panel could go, and there indeed it went.  I made the wiring connections to the panel, including the two wires leading to the float switch (which, when activated, would sound the horn), and then power and ground (which I led respectively through a fuse to the hot side of the battery switch, so the alarm would always be powered, and to a nearby negative distribution buss).  I screwed the panel into place and neatened up the wiring, and this completed the installation.  The power light on the panel was lit, as it should have been.

Total time billed on this job today:  1.5 hours

0600 Weather Observation:
45°, sunny.  Forecast for the day:  mainly sunny, increasing clouds late in the afternoon, high in the low 60s

Patience 11

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Thursday

The final cosmetic change planned for the hull was to add a cove stripe near the gunwale.  The owner selected black to match the name, and I installed the new stripe so it was even with the top of the name, which was 5″ down from the edge of the gunwale above–or, more specifically, two strips of 2″ masking tape and one of 1″ .  I created a series of these tick marks along the length of the hull as required to give me a guideline for the new vinyl striping.

I left a 3″ space between the name and the stripe on each side, and ended the stripe 12″ ahead of the transom, and 36″ aft of the stem, and applied the striping to both sides, following my alignment marks and fairing the actual tape installation by eye accordingly.

Late in the day, some supplies I needed for the final job arrived.  To help keep a fully-charged battery topped off while the boat was not in use, the owner requested a small solar panel, with a portable, removable installation.  This 14W rollable panel seemed to fit the bill for the minimal electrical needs of the boat (mainly ensuring the battery stayed fresh for the new and improved automatic bilge pump system), and taking into account budget and portability requirements.  It wouldn’t light the charging world on fire with its performance, but would be up to the task of maintaining the state of the battery.  The panel could be placed just about anywhere, but on the coachroof tied to the handrails seemed a generally convenient spot despite some loss of production likely from boom shading when the boat was rigged.  The portable nature of the panel, and the non-permanent nature of its eventual wiring, meant that it could be moved around as needed.

solar1-60216

To be sure the panel wouldn’t have any negative effects on the battery from overcharging–not likely, but still–I specified a small solar controller, which I thought would also provide a convenient place to hook and unhook the panel wiring, which the owner wished led through the companionway.  I spent a little time mulling over possible ways I could install the internal wiring to the battery in a pleasing, useful, and safe way, keeping in mind the need to remove the panel and its wire when not in use.  I’d finish up the installation next time.

Total time billed on this job today:  1.75 hours

0600 Weather Observation:
45°, sunny.  Forecast for the day:  mainly sunny, increasing clouds late in the afternoon, high in the low 60s

Waanderlust 8

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Wednesday

The final job on my list was to install the new mast winches, which I’d ordered earlier and which had just arrived.  Installation onto the flat pads provided by the spar maker was straightforward, and I added an antique bronze cleat on each side to finish off the installation.

Total time billed on this job today:  .5 hours

0600 Weather Observation:
50°, sunny.  Forecast for the day:  sunny, 70s

Patience 10

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Wednesday

Back at the shop after a long weekend, the colored stripes of the new boottop had had a lavish amount of time to cure, so I continued the process by masking over the new stripes as needed so I could paint the white (i.e. hull color) portions between them, which was required in this case because the original condition of the underlying hull surface dictated this approach.

After final preparations, I applied a coat of gloss white enamel to these areas.

Next, I applied a second coat of light gray nonskid paint to the new cabin sole sections.

Late in the day, after a close inspection, I decided I was pleased with the new white paint at the boottop, and decided to remove the masking tape.  All that remained to complete the new look now would be to repaint the bottom up as far as the lowest white stripe, which I’d do as soon as I felt I could overmask the fresh paint.

Total time billed on this job today:  2 hours

0600 Weather Observation:
50°, sunny.  Forecast for the day:  sunny, 70s

Patience 9

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Thursday

To finish up the knotmeter patch, I lightly sanded the fairing compound, bring the area smooth and level with the adjacent surfaces.  No further fairing was required, so after a solvent wash I applied a coat of plain epoxy over the fairing material as a sealer.

I sanded the primer on the cabin sole panels, and after final preparations applied the first of a couple coats of nonskid paint, which I mixed to a light gray color.

In the cabin, I finished up the new bilge pump wiring, leading four wires as needed to the new switch location, on the starboard bulkhead just beneath the electrical panel.  I made connections in the battery compartment as required to connect the new wiring to the wires already leading to the bilge, and this completed the electrical side of the pump installation.

With the connections made, I could test-run the pump.  These pumps have the idiosyncrasy, as it were, of running capably in either direction, and with two unmarked black wires leading from the motor, there’s no required–nor conveniently marked–polarity.  So determining the pump inlet and outlet ports for the hoses requires operating the pump first, once wired, to determine which is the suction side.  Both the manual switch and auto switch tested operational, and with the ports’ correct orientation determined, I could make up the inlet and outlet hoses as required.  (The inlet has the strainer.)

This quickly pushed out the remaining water in the long hose leading to the transom, leftover from the old installation.

Total time billed on this job today:  3 hours

0600 Weather Observation:
55°, sunny.  Forecast for the day:  sunny, high near 80

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