The final task on my list was to clean up the nearly 40 year-old hull, still in its original gelcoat. The finish was in quite good condition considering the age and use, but would benefit from a modicum of attention. I overturned the boat and propped it up for (relatively) convenient working height, taking care to protect the pristine new rubrail.
There was a yellowish stain on the bottom and around the waterline, so my first step was to apply some anti-yellowing material to remove most of the staining. This worked as expected.
Next, I buffed the hull with rubbing compound to remove additional staining and any more significant scratches or minor damage, followed by a buffing with a polishing material to finish things off. The results were good given the age and beginning condition of the hull.
Now that the boat had had a chance to at least begin to dry out, I could begin the process by inspecting the existing hull substrate to prepare for the refinishing work ahead. The existing coating–and it was a painted surface, not gelcoat–was in fair condition overall, with only minor damage from the usual assortment of docking incidents, etc. The paint surface was flat and smooth, and fairly faded and oxidized in some areas, showing its age (which was indeterminate), but otherwise appeared basically sound. I’d first viewed the boat two years earlier during the original job discussion, and the paint appeared to have held up well in the meantime.
To determine the compatibility of the existing coating with the new paint, I had to do a couple adhesion and compatibility tests, beginning with a scoring test to check the coating’s adhesion to the original substrate. I followed the coating system’s documentation in performing these tests.
Choosing an area that would be straightforward to repair during surface preparations–the flat surface of the lower portion of the transom– I used a sharp knife to cut through the paint surface over a 2″ square area, creating a matrix of 1/4″ squares between the score cuts.
I firmly applied a piece of duct tape, a strong-adhesive tape, pressing it onto the surface evenly. Then, I pulled it straight off, at a 90° angle, like a Band-Aid. The goal of this test was to determine if any of the paint in between the score lines came off with the tape, as it likely would were basic adhesion suspect.
The paint in the scored area remained firmly in place. I performed the tape test a second time to be sure, and the only sign of anything was perhaps some of the oxidation/weathering on the surface coming away with the tape, natural enough since the paint was oxidized for hints of the color to come away even on a dampened rag.
Next, I performed the important solvent compatibility test. Soaking small rags in topcoat solvent from the paint system, I taped them in place in two areas on the hull: one directly over the scored area, and the other in another random location, which happened to be on the starboard topsides near the exhaust outlet, but could have been anywhere.
I left these tests in place for 15 minutes before removing the rags and inspecting the paint beneath. There were no signs of any paint removal, wrinkling, or other suspect damage, nor even any particular signs of coating softening beneath the harsh solvent. This was all good news, as it meant that I’d not have to remove the existing coatings, and that they could provide an acceptable substrate for the new primer and paint.
With those critical steps behind me, I turned to documenting the existing position of the bottom paint, boottop, and true waterline; the actual floating waterline was easily determined by a visible scum line bow and stern, and backed up by some photos of the boat in the water that I took during my inspection and estimating two years earlier.
Photo from 10/2/15
Photo from 10/2/15
Photo from 10/2/15
Photo from 10/2/15
The owner requested that we correct the waterline, which was a bit wonky and could certainly be improved upon. For this purpose, the location of the actual floating waterline was most important and was the main focus of my measurements.
At the stern, I measured from a known point on the hull, determined by securing a steel rule in line with the angle of the hull at the top of the aperture behind the rudderpost. From here, I could determine set measurements to the actual scum line (13-1/2″). I’d use this mark again later as a reference point for striking a new and improved waterline (i.e. top of the bottom paint in my personal nomenclature here) and boottop.
At the bow, I followed a similar procedure, this time using the bottom edge of the stem plate as my reference for measurement. I secured the tape measure along the stem and noted the various measurements for the record: 60-3/4″ to the actual scum line.
I also noted that the existing boottop had a visual height of 3″ amidships. While its current position was irrelevant, I did note that on the port side, there was evidence that the boot was at or possibly below the waterline at rest, evidenced by various paint failure and bubbling that suggested submersion or at least proximity.
Onwards. The original job bid had me performing basic seasonal maintenance on the brightwork on deck, along with the caprails, rubrails, and bulwarks. Inspecting the woodwork now, I noted many past and present failures of the old finish (Cetol) on the caprails, as well as the bulwarks and rubrails. On deck, the handrails, hatch trim, and cockpit areas were more serviceable if not in ideal condition, but upon discussion with the owner we decided to concentrate mainly on the most significant areas that also happened to need the most work: caprails, rubrails, bulwarks. At my suggestion, the owner decided to proceed with stripping and refinishing these areas, while sticking with maintenance coats on the deck trim for the moment.
At the stern, I took various measurements to document for my future reference the existing letter sizes and spacing of the name and hailport on each side, the removed the vinyl lettering to prepare for sanding and surface preparation.
Total time billed on this job today: 3.75 hours
0600 Weather Observation: 60°, rain. Forecast for the day: Rain, 60s
Steadfast arrived at the shop by truck on a tropical rainy day, about a week later than originally planned because of an owner-requested delay to give him additional time to haul and prepare the boat. The project scope included hull refinishing and woodwork maintenance.
Once the driver unstrapped the boat and spars from the trailer, he moved over near the shop so we could unload the mainmast onto some saw horses for temporary storage. The mizzen, located under the boat on the inside of the trailer, could stay there till the boat was unloaded in the shop.
With the mast off, it was quick business to back the boat into the shop for unloading. Outside, we unloaded the mizzen. completing the delivery.
Total time billed on this job today: N/A
0600 Weather Observation: 65°, rain. Forecast for the day: Rain, often heavy, high 60s. Windy.
The 6th coat of varnish looked good, and I deemed the job complete. I removed all the masking tape from the boat and prepared things for the next item on the list.
Preparing for a boat delivery in the main shop, I moved the Dyer to the woodshop for the next task, which was to install the new cushy rubrail: traditional in appearance, and excellent in true function.
I began the installation at the starboard transom, where I chose to wrap the rubrail around the corner and on to the transom by 6″, an arbitrary amount that kept the center of the transom clear for the rudder while still providing a fender at the transom corner. I used a hot knife to seal the freshly-cut edge of the Dacron covering of the rubrail, and secured the material to the transom with bronze screws and washers on 4″ centers, both at the top, where it attached to the horizontal portion of the wooden rubrail, and on the hull side as well. On the transom, I fastened the rubrail directly to the fiberglass and into the wooden backing, but for the remainder of the boat the lower portion of the rubrail would be screwed to the wooden part of the rail that extended around the boat.
Now I wrapped the material around the corner, keeping it tight and ensuring the cleanest possible bend. I continued securing the rubrail with the bronze screws for a couple feet going forward before coming back to the corner to deal with the bunching of the fabric where I’d made the nearly right-angle turn. I used #6 x 3/4″ round head screws at the top, and 5/8″ versions for the hull side.
At the corner, I carefully cut the material where it bunched, removing excess and eventually sealing the fresh cut with the hot knife before installing an additional screw right over the seam. On the lower side, I added a screw into the aft edge of the hull-side wooden rail.
With the most delicate part of the operation complete, I continued forward, securing the rail every 4″ top and bottom. When I reached the oarlocks, I removed the fasteners securing them to the boat (barrel bolts) so that I could slip the Dacron right beneath them before resecuring the oarlocks.
Eventually, I made it round the stem and down the other side, following the same procedure till finally turning the last corner at the port transom and ending this side of the rail 6″ in from the corner, just as at the beginning. I thought the new rail looked great, and knew it’d be even better in function than form.
Finally, I reinstalled the cover over the daggerboard trunk and moved the boat for safekeeping. This wrapped up most of the work list. Still ahead, I had to clean up the hull to the extent possible, which task I’d attend to in the near future.
Total time billed on this job today: 3.75 hours
0600 Weather Observation: 65°, rain. Forecast for the day: Rain, often heavy, high 60s. Windy.
The rudder, spars, and other portable parts were done for now, and I reassembled the rudder/tiller assembly and stored the spars in their original bag, setting everything aside for safekeeping.
Meanwhile, I continued the work in the dinghy itself, sanding, cleaning, and varnishing for the 5th time.
Total time billed on this job today: 1.25 hours
0600 Weather Observation: 50°, clouds and fog. Forecast for the day: Gradually becoming sunny, upper 60s
After once more sanding and cleaning the interior woodwork in the boat, I applied the 4th coat of varnish to all areas. The 4th coat is typically when the wood starts to look like something after the initial coats start to fill the wood grain.
Meanwhile, I sanded the rudder and applied a second maintenance coat to the wood.
Total time billed on this job today: 1.5 hours
0600 Weather Observation: 46°, clear. Forecast for the day: Sunny, 66°
Continuing the process on the thwarts and rubrail, I went through the normal routine: sand, clean, and varnish, this time coat #3.
Two of the three spars looked good after their maintenance coat, but the third section required another coat because of a couple holidays that I’d missed. I also applied a second maintenance coat to the oars, tiller, and daggerboard pieces, all of which had been a bit more beat up to start with and benefited from the additional coating.
The minor repair on the rudder was complete, and after a quick sand to smooth the glued seam, I applied a coat of varnish to the rudder as well.
Total time billed on this job today: 1.75 hours
0600 Weather Observation: Clear, 35°. Forecast for the day: sunny, around 70
After a light sanding and cleanup, I applied a second coat of varnish to all areas in the boat.
The spars for the sailing rig, along with the oars, rudder, and daggerboard, were in generally good condition and appeared little-used. The brightwork on these items was in sound condition and required only maintenance coats of varnish going forward.
After removing the tiller and lightly sanding the rudder, I found a crack in the wood near the top, so I made a small repair with epoxy and clamps.
I lightly sanded the spars, oars, and other pieces, then applied a coat of varnish to them all.
Total time billed on on this job today: 4 hours
0600 Weather Observation: Clear, 34°. Forecast for the day: sunny, upper 60s
Now I sanded all the recently-stripped interior woodwork to smooth and further clean the surfaces, working through a couple grits with an electric sander and by hand as necessary. The original wood–mahogany for the thwarts and white oak for the rubrails–was in good condition overall, particularly the old mahogany, and cleaned up quite well, though retaining the inevitable–even desirable–patina of age. The white oak was stained around all the rubrail fasteners, but most of this rail (except the inboard edge) would later be covered by the new “canvas” rubrail.
After vacuuming, I solvent-washed the wood to clean it, leaving it to air dry for several minutes before continuing.
Once the solvent had evaporated, I masked around the various pieces of bronze hardware and along the edges of the wood as needed to protect the hardware and hull from the varnish work.
Finally, I applied a well-thinned sealer coat of varnish to all areas.
Total time billed on this job today: 3.5 hours
0600 Weather Observation: Clear, 25°. Forecast for the day: sunny, 50s
