110 Cookson Lane | Whitefield, ME 04353 | 207-232-7600 | tim@lackeysailing.com |
Snow Lily |
Monday, September 24, 2012 Before continuing construction of the starboard settee lockers, I prepared the inside areas for paint and other finish, masking off a 1" border around areas to be painted. After vacuuming and solvent-washing, I painted the exposed hull and various other areas with gray Bilgekote. Later, I'd apply sealing varnish to the exposed cherry areas of the lockers. |
On the port side, I prepared portions of the beadboard bulkheads for bungs, drilling in way of the temporary screw holes and installing cherry bungs. I did this only in areas that I needed complete in order to continue construction of the port settee lockers; in time, I'd complete the bunging on the remaining areas of these bulkheads, but my immediate goal was to install the "false bottom" for the port locker unit. |
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Once the glue had cured enough, I pared away the bungs where I needed to work and lightly sanded, then laid out for the settee back and "false bottom", using the same measurements and techniques as on the starboard side. I prepared hardwood cleats to support the plywood bottom and installed them in their designated spots with glue and screws. |
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Next, I cut to length and rough width a piece of 12mm marine plywood for the bottom, and scribed it to fit the hull along the outside edge. |
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After epoxy-coating the edge grain, and a portion of the underside where I'd be installing tabbing shortly, I installed the plywood base with epoxy adhesive against the hull and on the cleats, using a bit of hot glue in the center to hold the sheet against the level marks. Then, from beneath, I installed sections of 6" biaxial tabbing to secure and support the bottom and related cabinetry. |
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Finally, I prepared several sections of cherry plywood from the starboard lockers for final installation, lightly sanding them to remove pencil marks and applying a sealer coat of varnish to all sides. |
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