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From a Bare Hull:  Interior Basics (Page 6)

When I removed the old bulkhead, and then later when I installed deck beams, I had noticed that the original bulkhead had been installed well out of square to the centerline, and far out of plumb as well.  As a result, I could not use the remaining web to attach my new bulkhead, since the new piece had to be plumb and square to match the rest of the new structure.  After deciding to locate the new bulkhead directly beneath the nearby deck beam, I spent a few minutes plumbing a line down from the beam to the hull beneath, so that I would have reference marks for aligning the new bulkhead.  With this done, I installed mahogany cleats on the underside of the deck beam, and also at the bottom side, spanning the gap between the two fiberglass V-berth support cleats. I attached the upper cleat to the beam with bronze screws, and epoxied the lower cleat to the fiberglass supports.

Before continuing, I took a moment to drill a new limber from the chainlocker aft. Earlier, I had filled in the old, tiny limber, so now I used a 3/4" hole saw to create a new one.

Once the epoxy had cured sufficiently, I created a cardboard template of the area, scribing the contours of the hull directly onto the cardboard once I had pieces cut roughly to fit.  Then, I transferred the shape to a piece of fir beadboard plywood, ensuring that the bulkhead centerline was centered on one of the "boards" for a symmetrical look.  I checked the fit and made some additional cuts as necessary to get it to fit properly in the space; I didn't worry about a perfect fit, choosing instead to cut it a bit smaller than necessary against the hull on each side, since the bulkhead would be purely cosmetic, and the gaps would later be covered by a hull ceiling.

With that done, I installed the bulkhead to the cleats with bronze screws, keeping the screwheads within set distances from the overhead deck beam so that later they could be covered with a piece of trim.  Then, I applied some 15 oz. biaxial tabbing to each side of the bulkhead, spanning the gaps along the hull and further securing it in place---not to add any structure, but simply to prevent the bulkhead from moving disconcertingly if one were to lean against it later.

Finally, I began preparations for painting the new bulkhead by sanding it smoothly with 220 grit, and then applying several coats of primer, sanding between coats, to obtain a flat, smooth surface that would accept finish coats of paint and hide the heavy grain of the plywood.

This job is continuing; the photo shows the bulkhead after two coats of primer. Much later in the building process, I continued by applying the first of several coats of finish paint, seen below.